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Climbing north of Shelf Road?

Original Post
Don Ferris III · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 186

I've been wondering about the trad climbing north of shelf. Specifically those on the formation Window Rock. I climbed the west face of window rock on Saturday and found many pitons as well as a two bolt anchor at the top. I have been unable to find any info of the area online or otherwise. Any information would be appreciated. Thanks a bunch.

West face of Window Rock. Cripple Creek, Colorado.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

i heard a long time ago it was a harvey carter route (not sure if that is the case or not, but fairly likely), but never got around to doing it. how was it? i have climbed a handful of forgettable slabby cracks around there, but none of the cooler looking stuff.

teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

There's a cool natural arch (in granite?) north of Shelf that I saw a while ago. I want to make it back out there again some time and climb it. Anyone know what it is? Right by the road, closer to Cripple Creak.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

that's the window rock he was talking about, pretty cool looking eh?

Don Ferris III · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 186

The picture above is of the west face of window rock. The route was good but a little chossy. With a bit of traffic it would clean up nice and be pretty enjoyable. I did it in one pitch probably 150 feet. I'd say it was Eldo 5.9+. Here is a photo taken from the south that might be more recognizable.

View of Window Rock from the south.

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520

So is that second photo taken from Shelf Road? Looks cool. I have yet to drive the entire distance to Cripple Creek.

Don Ferris III · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 186

Stitch, that is correct. The drive is quite nice actually. Also, it takes a few minutes longer to drive from Denver to shelf via cripple creek so it's a worthy alternative to driving through canon city.

Steven N · · CO · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 80

When I was in Divide, I drove down Shelf Road all the time. nice drive and you always see mountain sheep. If I recall, theres another are just north of window rock with a few bolt lines

Le Bob · · Lakewood,CO · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 97

If anyone needs a partner for exploring this area, I'm game!

Go Back to Super Topo · · Lex · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 285

Please make sure that this is not private property, a lot of rock north of the main climbing areas at Shelf tend to be on private property.

Alexandra 000 · · 77433 · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 15

I would like to check this out! I have property boundary maps to stay off PP.

Speaking of shelf road. I'm curious of unfortunate incident of death at piggy bank. Can anyone speak as to what happened? 60 feet makes me think a rap went wrong. Can't find info on the web.

Dave Hurst · · somewhat near Boulder CO · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 5
Arlo F Niederer · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 515
Alexandra00000 Price wrote:

I would like to check this out! I have property boundary maps to stay off PP.

Speaking of shelf road. I'm curious of unfortunate incident of death at piggy bank. Can anyone speak as to what happened? 60 feet makes me think a rap went wrong. Can't find info on the web.

I posted information about the accident in a thread in the injuries and accident section...

Arlo F Niederer · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 515

I would contact Stewart Green from Colorado Springs. He wrote the guidebook to Colorado and many others. I believe he has an account on Mountain Project. 

He gives talks in Colorado Springs on a regular basis. Just gave one about Colorado about a month ago. 

Go Back to Super Topo · · Lex · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 285
Arlo F Niederer wrote:

I would contact Stewart Green from Colorado Springs. He wrote the guidebook to Colorado and many others. I believe he has an account on Mountain Project. 

He gives talks in Colorado Springs on a regular basis. Just gave one about Colorado about a month ago. 

Stewart Green has not published any guidebooks for Shelf, to my knowledge. Bob D (Shelf guidebook author), Rico Thompson (also a Shelf guidebook author), and Coalition members may all be better options for more up-to-date information. 

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

the climbing north of shelf doesn't really have much to do with shelf.  stewart has lived and climbed around the springs for a really, really long time.  i would think he would be the first person i would ask about it.  nelson lunsford, bill schmauser, and bob robertson would be other folks who might have done some climbing up there.

Go Back to Super Topo · · Lex · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 285
slim wrote:

the climbing north of shelf doesn't really have much to do with shelf.  stewart has lived and climbed around the springs for a really, really long time.  i would think he would be the first person i would ask about it.  nelson lunsford, bill schmauser, and bob robertson would be other folks who might have done some climbing up there.

Stewart is a good option yes, but he may not be as up to date as current guidebook authors who are publishing sectors located in the northern part of shelf. That is all. Stewarthas a great understanding, maybe better than anyone else in the area, in terms of history, but land switches ownerships frequently and there are individuals who published guidebooks for the area as recent as 6 months ago who may know things that have happened recently. 

Just trying to provide more options. Not trying to take anything away from Stewart, just trying to get a more accurate answer with many options for resources, so access does not become an issue for all of us. 

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

ummmm, yeah, but this isn't really the same part of shelf road.  way, way different (in literally every single way).  i am pretty sure none of the shelf road sport climbing area guidebook authors will have much info about this area.

Go Back to Super Topo · · Lex · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 285
slim wrote:

ummmm, yeah, but this isn't really the same part of shelf road.  way, way different (in literally every single way).  i am pretty sure none of the shelf road sport climbing area guidebook authors will have much info about this area.

From Cactus Cliff, The Bank, and many popular areas you are correct. However, it's fairly close to many crags in the north end, like Fowler Buttress (which are in the first edition Bob D guidebook and the latest Rico book)....again, not sure why we are arguing, I am just trying to give out as many options for information as possible so that there is no issue with access. I figured the guidebook authors to the area should be mentioned in the conversation, if the individual who posted this does not want to contact them then that is totally cool, but when more resources are mentioned the results are typically better. 

Bleys Andromeda-Focht · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 0

Being born and raised in Cripple Creek - I've always heard that Window Rock/Hole in the Rock is on BLM land. But I certainly agree with MrZ in that a lot of the areas north of traditional Shelf Road climbing is private. If a person were inclined to try and find the BLM I would suggest finding the most current data possible, because there have been some land swaps done in the area between where the "shelf" starts and Window Rock. 

As for climbing, there is another east face in between Window Rock and the "shelf" that looks viable as well with a fairly easy walkoff and no approach. I am unsure of whose property that lies though. 

Alexandra 000 · · 77433 · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 15

Any one wanna climb Thurs? Morning until 3ish? Springs and area? I wonna i wonna!!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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