Ideal Gunks rack?
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Move to the NYC recently and only have a very rudimentary trad rack. What do the locals think is the "ideal" Gunks rack? |
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Its right on the front page of the Gunks. |
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Look at MP destinations funks they have a list of gear for the gunks lead climber |
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Doubles and even sometimes triples in BD .5 and .75 C4 sizes can help make things safer. |
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I haven't got doubles of anything and still manage to sew it up like the chickenheart I am... But then, I carry a set of the oft-maligned tricams, from black through Purple. And use them, along with a set of nuts. |
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Hmm, I only got a set of DMM brassies, a double set of regular nuts and a couple finger-sized cams. Worked fine for me on granite/sandstone, but sounds like I have a lot of stuff to buy now. |
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For chillaxing with the homies brah! |
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I climb with one blue and one black alien. (.1 or .2 x4). doubles from .3 to .75 (one set is c4 one set is x4). I also have a single 1, 2 and 3 c4. One set of dmm offset nuts. A set of tricams from black to brown. I think this is usually overkill but I never am without. Also, the routes wonder a lot so I carry 6 alpine draws and 6 24'' (over the shoulder slings with one carabiner hanging on it. |
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Lots of tricams! Like others have said, the Gunks page has a whole big section on the ideal rack. That's where I started and how I based my purchase decisions. I really can't put enough emphasis on tricams usefullness at the Gunks though - they are phenominal and cost much less than a set of cams. |
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2 tri cams, 5 nuts, 4-5 cams up to #2 and draws. 3-4 slings if you plan to tr. |
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The pink and the red tricam are really useful there. I also very much enjoy my offset mastercams for cruxes. You can seriously bury some offsets inside the cracks there. Makes you feel really really secure when you are at your limit. |
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My rack: |
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I currently carry a set of C4s from .4 to 3, doubles in .5 and .75, black through grey Aliens, a set of BD stoppers 1-13. This rack has been sufficient for me so far, but I haven't lead much above 5.7. I'll probably pick up a second 1 and 2 C4 at some point. |
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Buy them!? Tri cams are free, usually hanging off trade routes like Christmas ornaments. I acquired most of my rack from leftovers. I once got a cam out of a tree (#2 I think) at the base of high e. The cheap climber is ever mindful of his surroundings |
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Topics around here do actually get repeated frequently. Holy crap though, I wouldn't have guessed this one so soon. |
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Happiegrrrl wrote: And, depending on how long the OP has been climbing, it seems a hammock is the new "must have" accessory.....Maximum extra points to Terri!!!!! The heck with "must have" I'm thinking mandatory if gang top roping a classic all day on a weekend. Particularly if you are chillin' with a couple of fatties. |
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some may shake their head, but my partner always racked a screamer for some of the mank pins there. I thought it was a good idea, and used it often. |
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small brass to # 5 cams triples in the finger sizes if you stiffen the pink and red tri cams they are easer to retrieve. Seems like The smaller Tri cams are the only sizes that you need. As for large Cams ,boat anchors, never placed the #7camalot, once each the #5and#6.on lead. They help to set up top ropes and 'directionals'. and shhh about what's fixed, use it, back it up, or leave it. You should also have webbing or 'cord' as well as lead slings. |
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I always here tricams are quite usefull in the gunks, but I wonder you must be able to climb without them if you don't have any on your rack. Ive never climbed at the gunks though. So are tricams a necessity in the gunks? |
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you don't HAVE to have them, but they work real well here and rack real small. So when you need ANOTHER finger size cam you have one, or when you are worried about protecting the crux you can use your tricams elsewhere. Or at your anchor. Whatever, you know how to climb and use protection. But they do get used here and rack real small. I keep 3 on a biner on the back of my harness. They get used. |
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They work well in horizontal cracks which is like 80% of the gunks. |