Wanted to check out Via Aqua near Yosemite Falls soon. Not too much info out there, but I found some trip reports and some crappy topos for the climb.
Does anyone know more about this route? Is it truly 5.6 or 5.7? Is it clean and well protected? Is the approach pretty obvious to the base of the climb? Any info would be great.
Via Aqua is an old free climb, unrelated to Via Sin Aqua. As with any older Valley route, better be ready for runout chimneys & offwidths, dirt, grass, no pro without digging, not much pro even with digging, etc...
Here's the description from the '87 guide. The bolt is rumored to be ancient, but good cam placements are nearby (done way before cams existed).
I climbed this route about 10 years ago in the fall, so the falls were totally dry.
I would not call this a 5.6 o 5.7. In fact, I seem to recall a rating of 10a at the time (but I don't know what we were referencing). It is a fun and unusual climb to do once. Think of it as "adventure climbing." No, it is not clean, not well protected (though I don't remember any horrific runouts) and the route is not obvious. The approach to the base of the climb is not obvious either. You hike up the Falls trail about 2/3rds of the way to the top. I recall that you can't see the start, but from the trail you traverse out and around to an exposed ledge. The climb starts around that ledge, which is hidden from view. I also recall chimneys and dirt. I think it is about 4 pitches, ending at the guard rail for the overlook. Hope this helps.
Greg Barnes wrote:Via Aqua is an old free climb, unrelated to Via Sin Aqua.
Doesn't "Via Sin Aqua finish with four pitches of "Via Aqua" (as per topo)? Thus giving a non-crappy topo for the route (though not the non-technical approach)
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