Please spew some beta (pic included)

Ok, so I got on this 10d (harder for shorter folks) the other day, and I can cruise the whole thing except this one move. If I were over 6' tall, it would be a piece of cake. See the attached pic. Tall people can put feet on A, use the jug B with left, and reach right for the relatively good hold F. But I try, and I'm 6-8" short when trying the reach.

C is the best of the 3 holds, a slopey 45 degree angle crimp. D is a slippery 2 finger pocket--pointer and middle fit best. E is a poor sidepull that I can only use if I have my left on C. Using C and D at the same time feel most solid, but I can't crank very hard on D because it's hard on the fingers. A is the last good foothold, but I can't reach F from it. There are some marginal lumps and tiny things that I can smear on between A, B, and E. I don't think I can one arm lock off on either C, D, or E, so the reach for F probably has to be dynamic once I get my feet in a place that make the reach possible.

Up down up down left right left right A B A B select start.

Kind of sequential, but if you do it right you will get unlimited lives. Alex Honnold discovered this cheat code on your route and now can climb without fear of dying.

All joking aside, I think your best bet is to mention the name of the route in hopes of finding someone else who has been on it. We can speculate, but without actually being on the route the advice will probably be as useful as mine above...

Really, that's a bummer, I figured some climber who sends 12s could just look at the picture and say "oh duh, just do this."

Maybe the answer is as simple as walk both feet up while locking off higher and higher until you can release right hand and latch the top hold.

The guy I was climbing with got the route using the beta I came up with while flailing a bit at that spot, but I'm not sure it's right. Basically the idea was to mess around with the feet until you can get left foot in B, then move right foot high enough and bump right to F. I tried it again later and kept losing my right hand off D when I try to bring my left foot that high. It seems like potentially the wrong beta because usually you step with the right foot to reach with the right hand. But in this case there are no good right foot holds except maybe A if you flag left foot left, and I can't reach F doing that unless I were to dyno.

The route is prairie fire . Also, guidebook calls it 10d, mountain project calls it 10c.

MattL wrote:Up down up down left right left right A B A B select start.

You win the internet today.

I find this question fascinating: I've never seen a labelled climbing move before. Ha!

Either stand on A, crank on B, get a foot on whatever crap exists for feet to make a big deadpoint from C to F, or use C & D to accomplish the same thing less dynamically (and more techy-bad-high-step-y)? E kinda seems out to me: the angle looks wrong.

Focus on the feet: if it's not pure power, it'll come down to feet.

Or I could be 100% wrong, because I'm looking at a picture and I'm a bad climber, to boot.

Question: do you try to reach F with both feet on A? If so, try facing left with your right foot as high as it can be on A and your left foot flagged to the left. Have left hand on B positioned as a side pull on the far right of the hold and this might give you enough reach to stick F. If that works, bring your left flagged foot in line with your center of gravity and continue.

If that doesn't give you enough reach to get F statically, then use those marginal lumps to get your feet as high as possible and move dynamically.

I am 5'7" with a -3 ape index, and I have found that I need to get my feet up as high as possible and make big moves. Making big moves is fun! Embrace your strengths and work through your weaknesses and you will get it. I hope this helps!

Let us know when you redpoint!

Really, that's a bummer, I figured some climber who sends 12s could just look at the picture and say "oh duh, just do this." Maybe the answer is as simple as walk both feet up while locking off higher and higher until you can release right hand and latch the top hold. The guy I was climbing with got the route using the beta I came up with while flailing a bit at that spot, but I'm not sure it's right. Basically the idea was to mess around with the feet until you can get left foot in B, then move right foot high enough and bump right to F. I tried it again later and kept losing my right hand off D when I try to bring my left foot that high. It seems like potentially the wrong beta because usually you step with the right foot to reach with the right hand. But in this case there are no good right foot holds except maybe A if you flag left foot left, and I can't reach F doing that unless I were to dyno.

This got posted while I was typing. Forget the last post. Besides, it is difficult to gauge distances in the photo without a reference.

Magpie, when I tried to reach with foot on A, it was left foot on A, left hand on B, right hand on D, right foot smearing on a small rounded lump maybe a foot below E.

The beta is this: Invert

Either hang off of A and push a foot up to B (left) or if it's easier, with your left hand in B swing your left foot in there, bat hang your hands over to C and E and then push up using your right leg on whatever will work. Pretty soon you'll be on F dialing up MP on your touchable i-thingy saying thanks!

Enjoy, and you're welcome (in advance)

Wow! sounds like a question for a algebra professor. Your on a climbing forum not a math forum. I bet your best bet for the redpoint is to go climb everything else you can and revisit this climb next year. I'm curious, are you a math major?

Nate, I can send this one way or another, I know if I want to risk it I can just smear up my feet, bump right for the hold... I only made a few attempts at getting it clean. I'm just nervous about cranking so hard on that right hand, especially because I injured it once before. One of the comments on this route mentions needing "very particular beta" to keep the route under 11a/b, so I was curious if anyone had ideas.

My best guess right now is to try what Magpie said and just do it dynamically with left on B, right foot on A, and right hand from D to F. The question will be can I stick to F with both feet cutting. Hopefully I can get back this season and find out.

Otherwise I'm just going to try smear smear smear feet up, put left foot in B, bump right from D to F.

Please, tell me that this is a joke or a troll... please? Pretty please? I am begging here. I am really afraid...

face climbing

lol

Adam, you are such a fat bitch! Validate to OP, Pontoon. DO IT!!

youtube.com/watch?v=SaA2pgR…

Mystery solved. Basically it was the beta I fell twice trying, except I had been moving my left leg faster for B. I guess I need to just crimp harder on D so I don't pop off, have the correct smear on right leg, and move left leg up slowly.

Edit: found the beta by talking to someone who has done the route. This has been a good exercise though thinking about all the options.

NC Rock Climber wrote:Adam, you are such a fat bitch! Validate to OP, Pontoon. DO IT!!

OKAY OKAY!!!11!!

MattL wrote:Up down up down left right left right A B A B select start. Kind of sequential, but if you do it right you will get unlimited lives. Alex Honnold discovered this cheat code on your route and now can climb without fear of dying. All joking aside, I think your best bet is to mention the name of the route in hopes of finding someone else who has been on it. We can speculate, but without actually being on the route the advice will probably be as useful as mine above...

What, you mean you cant figure out how to send a route just by looking at it??

Oh my, this takes "beta" to whole new 21st century level. Don't let supertopians see this!

This is awesome. Mountain Proj now lives up to its "Beyond the Guidebook" tagline...

Any climb that requires "very specific beta" is usually a sandbag. That is, the grade is a big fat lie.

It looks like slab why not try some down palms and balance standing on the huge foot.