recommendations up to 5.5 at the Gunks please

Haha.. J. What made you reply to this old post?

You must be a small guy to fit through the crux of the first pitch of the Wissner route. It's fun... After the first pitch.

I like Afternoon Deight and CWI. I think the pro is interesting on AD. The view at the top of both are sweet!

That's an interesting definition of trad. A partner and good friend of mine shares your view. He tries to lead on nuts only. I just enjoy my little personal victories. A day of only leading or finally leading something I've only followed or TRed before. I guess everyone has fun in their own way.

I'm looking forward to the fact that ice seasons around the corner.

Climbing with a friend and her kid Sunday and just trying to run down my options.

I'm actually leaning towards Easy V first (both pitches) and then Shockley's without. Good combo of exposure and easy climbing on both. She wants multi-pitch, which makes things a bit tougher.

When I was younger I cared what others ethics and definitions were. Now, I don't give a crap. Whatever makes climbing fun is what you should do. Obviously respect others but beyond that, do whatever you want. But I definitely feel like ground up leads should be the goal of a sparsely talented weekend warrior trad climber, and thats what I try for.

I've also found many classics (classics to me) that weren't the same once I made the moves. Great example. Right hand route on Chapel Pond Gully Cliffs. Once you make that move the first time and find the hold, it's very much just a 5.4 move that can never repeat that exhilaration. But because it was a commitment, i have a great appreciation for the route. IMO, it's a 2-3 star route, but the book gives it a lowly star.

How bout Betty for the first multipitch?

I wanna check out right hand route now. Thanks!

Bill Kirby wrote:How bout Betty for the first multipitch? I wanna check out right hand route now. Thanks!

Just climb horseman as one pitch. 5.5 cant get much better.

Betty is a great first multi pitch. At the first belay ledge stand on the ledge and there is a big horizontal at about head height that takes pink tri cams and .5's. super coomfy belay and just extend your belay over the cliff at the top to improve communication.