PSA: Don't use BD gridlocks for anything but belaying

I used a BD gridlock to set up a TR because it was the only locker I had on me at the time. At some point during climbing I think the piece of metal that separates the top section of the biner from the bottom snagged on a rock and snapped off. I don't believe this has any effect on the holding power of the biner but it did leave a nice sharp cutting edge. Best to use these lockers for belaying only. I suppose now I can use it as a keychain.

Gridlocks are only for belaying.

On another note I didn't really like this biner anyways. You have to unlock the gate twice to set up a belay. Love the magnetron gate but not on the gridlock.

Huh!

I have the Gridlock (no magic gate), and I don't like it either. I got it to eliminate potential cross-loading of a micro-Traxion for TR solo, but it's not very good for that. And it is a bit annoying as a belay biner. Go figure.

Never knew you could snap that piece!

teece303 wrote:Huh! I have the Gridlock (no magic gate), and I don't like it either. I got it to eliminate potential cross-loading of a micro-Traxion for TR solo, but it's not very good for that.

I have been considering one for my micro-trax soloing...i use dmm ovals now. Teece, can you explain why their not that great? Did you come up with a better solution?

I have seen this happen a couple of times now. It is due to loading it improperly.

It takes practice to use these gracefully.

Xam wrote: I have been considering one for my micro-trax soloing...i use dmm ovals now. Teece, can you explain why their not that great? Did you come up with a better solution?

DMM makes some great ANSI rated lockers (16kn across the gate). If you are worried about a 'biner breaking, then dont use a grid lock, they're weird, contrived, and apparently breakable. I only use ANSI rated stuff in my solo set up, lead or top rope.

I use the screwgate gridlock for a sport anchor all the time.

1" wide double-shoulder length sling, mini mammut lockers on each end, tied off with the gridlock though magic x as the master point.
Love it.

I hate this as a belay biner.

Avalon'cha wrote: DMM makes some great ANSI rated lockers (16kn across the gate). If you are worried about a 'biner breaking, then dont use a grid lock, they're weird, contrived, and apparently breakable. I only use ANSI rated stuff in my solo set up, lead or top rope.

Its not the biner breaking in the minitrax setup that is the problem, in my opinion. Its the biner rotating and the gate catching against the minitrax plate in a fall. This can pry the plate open making the mini trax either lock up irreversibly or fail completely. I've made this happen in self testing at low forces and it would be bad in an actual fall. I use the chest harness setup to prevent this for the primary minitrax but the backup minitrax is still susceptible.

Xam wrote: Its not the biner breaking in the minitrax setup that is the problem, in my opinion. Its the biner rotating and the gate catching against the minitrax plate in a fall. This can pry the plate open making the mini trax either lock up irreversibly or fail completely. I've made this happen in self testing at low forces and it would be bad in an actual fall. I use the chest harness setup to prevent this for the primary minitrax but the backup minitrax is still susceptible.

I just never liked that 'biner since i saw it & REALLY like the warm fuzzy feeling that i get knowing that my power point and harness connection can take 16kn as opposed to 8. I'm mostly soloing on lead with a modified Faders Sum & use an ISC Red on my occasional TR forays & to back up when jugging. I honestly dont like teeth on my ropes & the only experience i have with a mini trax was as a progress capture on a 2:1 ratchet haul, not even load bearing, and the pulley jammed. So F that piece too! Especially in my solo rig :)

And yes, i know that people never die soling from a broken 'biner, all sorts of other things, but never a broken 'biner (that ive heard of) Fact is im just a wuss & that one did break (potentially exposing my soft goods to a sharp edge ;)

I was considering getting one of those but ended up buying Rock Exotica Pirate WireEye (they make bines for Petzl), it works pretty good with my Click-up.

Auto & Screw-Lock

Tom M wrote:I was considering getting one of those but ended up buying Rock Exotica Pirate WireEye (they make bines for Petzl), it works pretty good with my Click-up.

I'm not sure Rock Exotica makes biners for Petzl anymore...

I have a few of these:
mec.ca/product/5036-335/ede…

and over a dozen of these:
simond.com/en/cat/Carabiner…

and 2 of these:
camp-usa.com/products/carab…

and a BD Gridlock, and a DMM Belay Master (both versions).

I've never had any trouble getting used to using them - I can't say the same for other people....

I choose Rock Exotica WireEye because it's not hot forged (oval cross-section) and I find it lasts longer before gouge starts to damage my rope.