Best Cities in U.S. for Multipitch/Trad

Tradster wrote: Yeah sure OLDSAG....I doubt you've ever done more than one or two multi-pitch climbs anywhere near Bishop. Temple Crag isn't chossy...I've climbed on it, but you know so much more from second-hand info. Here's some advice, get your butt out and do some Sierra multi-pitch climbs rather than just make a fool of yourself, which your previous post do suggest you are. From other's posts, they seem not overly impressed with your anti-Sierra bias.

I love the Sierras! What are you talking about. Whitney portal is not the entire Sierras.

I never said Whitney Portal was the entire Sierras. Please don't put words in my mouth. I'm capable of doing that myself. Thanks.

Well don't put words in mine either. I never said I hated or disliked the sierras yet you say I have an anti-Sierra bias. I said no such thing. I didn't care for climbing at the portal, but that's just a small portion of the sierra range.

Tucson was dissed up-thread a bit so I have to jump in to defend it. I've lived in or near Tucson for ~6 years; in the past I lived in Boulder for 6 years, Boston for 5, and spend a lot of time in New York growing up. While Tucson certainly can't offer all that Boston or New York could, it's got a lot going for it culturally, and despite being ~1 million, has something of a "small city" feel. In terms of what a city has to offer culturally (music, food, history, art, nightlife, diversity, etc.) I much prefer it to Boulder. It's also affordable which is nice.

Climbing-wise, the access is great and there is tons of climbing. However, the multi-pitch tends toward either well-bolted face climbing on one hand or run-out and/or chossy adventures on the other. Both are great if that's what you're looking for but many are looking for something else (granite splitters, Red Rocks-type moderates, etc.).

You can climb here nearly 365 days a year, which is a huge plus--in summer the top of Mt. Lemmon at 9000' feet stays cool and has the best long routes on the mountain. Tucson is also set in beautiful desert and surrounded by dramatic mountains. However, the lack of forests, real seasons, and even more so, water, can be hard to get used to if coming from the East.

bradyk wrote:OLDSAG, did you know that the Sierra's are larger than the Alps. Peter Croft has spent a large portion of his climbing career on the Sierra east side and I'm sure he hasn't done every route. Bishop is a perfect jumping point for the entire east side and if you don't mind driving to the Valley you have another lifetime of climbing. OLDSAG, you are a stubborn gumby.

Yeah but once you factor in the grade that normal people with jobs can climb, then that lifetime worth of routes will seem a lot smaller. Peter Croft can spend a lifetime there because he is Peter Croft and can climb anything he wants. But even he has to travel and get out of the Sierras to do other objectives. Then you factor in the route quality and your choices become more limited. It would be an expensive mistake to move to a place just based on what people say on the internet and looking at numbers and stars.

My suggestion to the OP is to actually take a few trips all the top 3 or 5 places in your mind. Spend some time there and get on some climbs at each place and scope out the town. Then make a decision.

Plus I think Bishop lacks a lot of things that makes it desirable as a place to live.

I'll take 100 routes (if there were only 100 routes) in the Sierra over 1000 routes in the Gunks (and I love the Gunks). Even if you are not the Granite God Mr. Peter Croft, living in a place like Bishop with an easy year around access to climbing, can make you stronger and open up lots of routes enough to keep you busy.

I am not saying that Bishop is the number 1 place to live for multipitch trad, although it is probably in the top 10. I am just arguing with your original statement:
O.L.D.S.A.G.
2 days ago
Patrick Gillespie wrote:
Anyone have any thoughts on Bishop?

Not for multipitch trad climbing. Am I wrong?

Yes you are still wrong and I'm tired of beating a dead horse now.

I am in Bend right now and really enjoying the multipitches at Smith Rocks. Most of them are mixed or fully bolted but there are a few that are gear only. The lower gorge is full of single pitch trad climbs on basalt columns. Decent beginner/intermediate alpine and mountaineering routes in the Cascades. Great town, easy to find a job, plenty of single ladies and rope-huns. Less than 2 hours away is Wolf Rock and Trout Creek. Long drive to the Sierras but close enough to do it IAD.

My other top picks would be Vegas, Truckee, South Lake Brahoe, or Bumfuck Wyoming near the Winds. Boulder could be nice as well but I like gluten too much. Hope you find a rad place to live.

depends if you want to rope solo or find partners.....some of the dudes that posted here are unreliable,flaky,and unreliable.some are solid!what suits some may not suit others.i would sample the cities personally and see what the scene is like."Talk is Cheap."

bradyk wrote:Boulder could be nice as well but I like gluten too much. Hope you find a rad place to live.

Haha.. Thanks! I'm sure I will!

Mike Hasse wrote:Are North Conway and New Paltz too small? The job market is more challenging than Vegas or the Front Range I would guess, but you can't beat access to some really great multipitch trad climbing.

I second this one!! :)

bradyk wrote:I am not saying that Bishop is the number 1 place to live for multipitch trad, although it is probably in the top 10. I am just arguing with your original statement: O.L.D.S.A.G. 2 days ago Patrick Gillespie wrote: Anyone have any thoughts on Bishop? Not for multipitch trad climbing. Am I wrong? Yes you are still wrong and I'm tired of beating a dead horse now. I am in Bend right now and really enjoying the multipitches at Smith Rocks. Most of them are mixed or fully bolted but there are a few that are gear only. The lower gorge is full of single pitch trad climbs on basalt columns. Decent beginner/intermediate alpine and mountaineering routes in the Cascades. Great town, easy to find a job, plenty of single ladies and rope-huns. Less than 2 hours away is Wolf Rock and Trout Creek. Long drive to the Sierras but close enough to do it IAD. My other top picks would be Vegas, Truckee, South Lake Brahoe, or Bumfuck Wyoming near the Winds. Boulder could be nice as well but I like gluten too much. Hope you find a rad place to live.

Okay okay, we all made our points. Time to move on. Agreed.

Did anybody mention Las Vegas, that's more than a lifetime of routes and First Ascents

Tahoe for sure. There are a lot of great areas out there but Tahoe does not disappoint for trad climbers.

Great Bishop discussion and loved the "Not Impressed" photo submitted by Old Sag!
I'm gonna continue the bishop discussion because I think's there more to be said for both sides, but not now.

JCM wrote: SF/LA: Awesome cities,

Really? LA is the armpit of the USA. It's quite possibly the single worst large city in America. I used to want to move to LA, until I actually spent one day in there. SF is nicer, although still massive and cold all the time.

Both have insane traffic problems, and you will spend far more time in traffic getting to the crag than actually at the crag.

So I just went back to Bishop to visit my family and I was absolutely blown away at how crowded it has become. The community is still legit but the tourons are out of frakin' control! Spring and Fall are a different story but right now the Milks are gettin' shat on! Very sad.

LA is the armpit? Detroit has got to be on the top of that list?

Wheres the t'aint? I havent been to Detroit, but I really can't imagine anything much worse than LA.

Asheville.

and I guess that makes Miami...

Don't want to hijack the thread, but I'm looking for some beta about some towns near others that have already been mentioned.

Been living in CO my whole life, but will likely have to move out of state for surgery residency, so I'm restricted to towns where there are residency programs.

Some of the options that seem like they could be okay but I'm not sure about are Modesto CA, Ventura CA, Corvalis OR, and Kingsport TN. Can anyone say anything about these cities (quality of living, outdoor and climbing access, etc)? Thanks!