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crack climbs in arizona

Original Post
Benj84 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 435

Hey everyone !
I'm going to be spending the next 3 months in the states, I have been itching to do some trad for quiet some time now but have limited possibilities due to the fact that I live in the disneyland of bolts.
During my stay I'm going to be going up to indian creek for a week, I've done a few crack climbs before but would like to get a few more under my belt before heading up to mecca, could anyone give me the beta for good finger through fist cracks in arizona that wouldn't be too much of a sufferfest to climb in during the late autumn and winter months?
I have a whole lot of limestone face climbing experience and have lead comfortably 5.10ish splitters but would prefer some stuff well below the grade that is a bit more pedantic on the gear.
Any input would be greatly appreciated !
also if anyone is planning on some climbing in the next three months , if it be bouldering trad sport or multipitch (don't think I'm ready for multpitch trad) please get in touch, I'm have a pretty open schedule, a doubles rack and a ton of motivation !
thanks for reading my blerp
-Benjamin

NC Rock Climber · · The Oven, AKA Phoenix · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 60

Two of my favorite places for AZ crack climbing are Paradise Forks and The Oak Creek Canyon Overlook.

Where in AZ are you going to be living?

Scott M. McNamara · · Presidio San Augustine Del… · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 55
mountainproject.com/v/the-o…

mountainproject.com/v/sulli…

mountainproject.com/v/parad…

mountainproject.com/v/the-w…

In (more or less) descending order of increasing difficulty.

Have fun, play and experiment!
Benj84 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 435

Thanks for the input guys, I take it that a paradise forks and overlook would be workable on a sunny day in the winter?
NC, I'll be sort of split between friends in the east valley and family in the west.

Robbie Brown · · the road · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 465

Oak creek waterfall is your best option if you have triples in tcus and can lead 5.11

Scott M. McNamara · · Presidio San Augustine Del… · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 55

I think it may depend on the weather any given day.

The Forks can be difficult to get to if there is a great deal of snow.

Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I would guess during a cold snap the sunny side at Sullys would probably be the warmest of all the places I linked.

Manny Rangel · · PAYSON · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 4,788

Sullies is perfect on cold days with no wind in Winter. Single pitch cracks are available in your range at Isolation Canyon. Sunny walls and mixed routes.

Some good cracks are found closer to Phx on Pinnacle Peak and the McDowells.

Christopher Creek Gorge has great crack climbs too. It is east of Payson about 20 miles.

Rohan de Launey · · South Lake Tahoe · Joined May 2012 · Points: 15

I'll be riding my bike through the area around Oct. 20th and would be stoked to link up for some climbing. Ill be bringing gear, not sure on the rope yet, an looking for partners to climb with. I am going on a motorcycle tour of SW and could climb for a couple days in paradise forks, looks awesome! Ill have a cell and be firmer on the dates the closer we get. I generally prefer longer stuff but I am stoked to sample this area!

Benj84 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 435

Looks like I've got plenty to do in AZ !
Manuel, I couldn't find the christopher creek section in MP, are there any topos out for it?
Rohan, I'll probably be around on the 20th, don't hesitate to contact me if you want to meet up.
Thanks again to everyone who put in they're two cents

Manny Rangel · · PAYSON · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 4,788

No topos on MProj but rockclimbing.com has info. Christopher Creek Gorge is an adventure and has a ton of rock. Stick to the north side if it's warm. The Exit Gorge area is easiest to approach.

For a higher concentration of routes you may want to hit Isolation; same rock. Just a longer walk. I'm getting lazier so CCG has become my new fun place.

Greg Opland · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 181
manuel rangel wrote:I'm getting lazier...
Ho mahn...
Say it ain't so!!! :-) :-)
Alexander Parrish · · Prescott, Arizona · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 95

You can't forget granite mountain in prescott. Some of the best granite climbs in az that are multi pitch

lou · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 60

Benj84

if you want to prep for the creek, there is only one place to go. If you can lead tens there you can lead tens at the creek. Very similar to the creek in that there are no face holds to have to cheat. Also the texture is somewhat the same, although basalt. You can climb there when its 90 or 30 degrees and be in shorts. There are 5.8S and on up. You will have hand cracks, finger, off finger, fist, ow, you name it. Oh you do want somewhat of a sufferfest; or you wouldn't be going to the creek! The more you suffer here the less there. Some of the best camping in the state; free and beautiful. Hit it there and hit it hard; you will be happy you did when you are on sighting IHC and Supercrack.
oh... the place is Paradise Forks...

cheers..lou

England · · Colorado Springs · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 270

I only checked this out because I lived in Tucson for seven years(not a climber then) and was interested to see how many things I had hiked by. No offense to you AZ people, but here are a few thoughts on crack climbing to thinks about....it's not something you learn overnight. I only say this to prepare you, and not get you discouraged. You said you have only done a couple of crack climbs, the areas mentioned above have some very intimidating cracks. Crack climbing is all about technique, footwork, hand jams, figure locks, and not getting STUCK in the crack. It doesn't come naturally, or at least it didn't for me. My footwork was good out of the gate, but had to work with a crusty old crack climber to learn the finer art of the hand work. Try to find someone to hang with that is experienced to get some pointers, and you will be off in no time. Good luck and have fun.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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