Best boots for vertical ice?

Hello all,

I spent about 6 days last year climbing ice up to WI-5 (on top rope) and am hoping to do a lot more this season in the alps! I'd like to buy some boots instead of needing to deal with rentals for this season. What sorts of boots should I be considering? I am not planning on doing any serious mountaineering, mostly interested in the ice climbing itself. However, I will still be using the boots for some amount of hiking/walking on snow fields in Switzerland.

Thanks!
-Vinay

Scarpa Phantom Guides hands down. Most climbers you see climbing harder grades are in theses. Probably one of the best boots on the market. Then only other one in that category in my opinion are the Baturas. Both have an integrated gaiter. I'd go with whichever one of those two fits you best.

ok ok stop right here...

Best boot is the boot that FITS you. Wanna guess what the worst boot on the market is? The one that DOESN'T fit you.

I don't care if it's the Lamborghini of ice boots. If it doesn't fit, then it's a Yugo. There are certain climbing shoes and boots that are supposedly the best, but they don't fit me...so they don't work.

Personally I wear what is considered one of the best general boots, which is the La Sportiva Nepal Evo. I wear it for alot of reasons and the big one is that it fits ME so well.

I have scarpas, kaylands etc. and others swear by lowa's, but it's fit fit fit fit. Find the comparable range of boot you are looking for (internet) and then try them on if you can. Nice thing about the internet is you can probably find that range on multiple sites for either reviews or shopping. Works already done for you.

Here is some good info:

outdoorgearlab.com/Mountain…

+1 for Scott.

If there was a hands down amazing boot then that would be the only one on the market. But there isn't. Different brands, hell even different models within a brand are going to fit differently. Like Scott said…. what ever fits you best. Be sure to try them on with the socks you're going to be wearing at the time.

Cant reiterate what has been said above enough. Good boots can only be found by trying them on. Go to a reputable mountaineering/alpine shop and try on all the different boots they have. Make sure to kick something hard to see if you are going to have toe bang issues. Bring several different thicknesses of socks and try different combinations. While you are trying the boots on, write down on a piece of paper which felt best in what size. Then go read some online reviews to make sure that they are the class of boot you are looking for and have enough insulation to keep your feet protected in the places you intend on climbing. I'll leave it up to you if the local shop did enough to earn your business or if you end up buying them online. At the least, I always give the local shop the opportunity to match a better price offered somewhere else.

Best,

Jeff

Try La Sportiva!

Thanks folks! Naturally I won't buy a boot that doesn't fit :-). I realize now that my original question wasn't very clear. I know that some boots are better for vertical ice than others, which is why I was hoping to find some suggestions for ones to try out. Since I'm going to be shopping in a Swiss store and don't really speak German, the folks there are going to have a hard time helping me.

So I'll start out by trying the Scarpa Phantom Guides and La Sportiva Nepal Evos. Any others you recommend that I try? Or maybe I should just start on this list and go top to bottom: outdoorgearlab.com/Mountain… :-)

Vinay S wrote:Thanks folks! Naturally I won't buy a boot that doesn't fit :-). I realize now that my original question wasn't very clear. I know that some boots are better for vertical ice than others, which is why I was hoping to find some suggestions for ones to try out. Since I'm going to be shopping in a Swiss store and don't really speak German, the folks there are going to have a hard time helping me. So I'll start out by trying the Scarpa Phantom Guides and La Sportiva Nepal Evos. Any others you recommend that I try? Or maybe I should just start on this list and go top to bottom: outdoorgearlab.com/Mountain… :-)

Lol you'd be surprised that people buy boots that don't fit based on recommendations or price. Your list is a great start and here is backcountry's complete list. One thing to keep in mind is not to buy too much of a boot...or too little. No sense getting a boot for Denali if you are going ice cragging.

http://www.backcountry.com/mens-mountaineering-boots

As other have said, fit is paramount. Your boots need to be comfortable, otherwise you won't have any fun. Pay special attention to heel lift, as a sloppy heel can lead to calf fatigue. If a return is possible, take the boots home and wear them around the house for a few hours to see if there are any hot spots.

Otherwise, look for a boot that has toe and heel welts and is compatible with fully-automatic crampons. These are generally stiffer, too, and more comfortable for long front-pointing sessions.

The super-gaiter boots (LS Batura 2.0, Scarpa Phantom Guide, etc.) are generally warmer than traditionally-styled leather mountaineering boots (LS Nepal EVO, Scarpa Mont Blanc, etc.).

Hope this helps!

Something warm.

Something stiff.

Something with a toe lug for the most secure crampon fit.

Something that fits you.

That being said, I just picked up some La Sportiva Nepal Evos for vertical ice because my Spantiks were too flexible for WI5+ and my Trango Alps aren't stiff or warm enough for all day WI climbs. Great general mountaineering boots, low angle ice and neve.... but not so much for vertical ice.

It is a new boot so it is not getting mentioned but the sportiva Nepal Cube may be a great option for an all around, steep ice climber.

Scott McMahon wrote:ok ok stop right here... Best boot is the boot that FITS you. Wanna guess what the worst boot on the market is? The one that DOESN'T fit you. I don't care if it's the Lamborghini of ice boots. If it doesn't fit, then it's a Yugo. There are certain climbing shoes and boots that are supposedly the best, but they don't fit me...so they don't work. Personally I wear what is considered one of the best general boots, which is the La Sportiva Nepal Evo. I wear it for alot of reasons and the big one is that it fits ME so well. I have scarpas, kaylands etc. and others swear by lowa's, but it's fit fit fit fit. Find the comparable range of boot you are looking for (internet) and then try them on if you can. Nice thing about the internet is you can probably find that range on multiple sites for either reviews or shopping. Works already done for you.

Spot on. But let me add on. Don't get them to tight, actually about a half size bigger than your street size if the brand has them. This allows for thick socks and kicking into the ice for long periods of time. If you don't do this get ready to lose some toe nails. Also, get a good insert. I have the red super feet, they have foil on the bottom and this helps keep your feet warmer standing on the ice belaying(you will find this is when your feet get there coldest). Enjoy.

Christopher.D.Thomas wrote:... That being said, I just picked up some La Sportiva Nepal Evos for vertical ice because my Spantiks were too flexible for WI5+...

This surprises me, I know the Spantik has a more rockered sole, but I didn't think it was more flexible than a Nepal. I see lots of folks climbing WI in them.

Definitely the boot that fits your feet best. Scarpa shoes tend to fit me better (for various reasons) than La Sportiva and some of my friends find the opposite true. Luckily, I happen to like Scarpa more. I would recommend one of the following boots:

I've a lot of time spent in a Phantom Guide mountaineering and ice climbing. I've used them over 6000m in Peru so they are warm. They're a nimble boot too, you don't feel like you have some big plastics on your feet. If you're in the EU, you can probably get your hands on the Phantom Guide Ultra.

Depending on temperatures and your how warm you tend to run in your extremities, the best ice climbing boot I've ever been in is the Scarpa Rebel Ultra GTX. Hands down. I actually find it quite warm, but it's not as warm as the Phantom Guide. It's being discontinued, but they've substituted it with Scarpa Rebel Pro GTX. It's good for approaches and great for ice climbing. Give it a look, very solid boot. I use all three, but if I just took one for straight ice climbing it'd be the Ultra GTX. There's still some available for purchase. Good luck.

Linnaeus wrote: This surprises me, I know the Spantik has a more rockered sole, but I didn't think it was more flexible than a Nepal. I see lots of folks climbing WI in them.

I'm almost positive he meant to say inflexible. The spantik is rock solid all the way up through the ankle, and even though it climbs great when you are straight in, when you end up getting into the fluted technical stuff it limits your creativity. Thats generally why I moved to the Phantom 6k's, the warmth of the spantik with much better ankle flexibility. I'd still put on my spantiks if all I was climbing was a 1000M 65 degree ice couloir, but for anything else requiring that level of warmth I prefer the 6k's.

Here are the two boots side by side. Most of the guides I know or work with use the Nepal Evo for steeper ice, so I figured I'd try them out considering I like the fit of the La Sportiva footbed. Whittaker Mountaineering has their post-monsoon sale going on, so the Nepal Evos are from their rental fleet.

The Spantiks are excellent for kicking steps and being warm while having a good degree of flexibility for crampon technique. Note the lacing system, which is optimal for use in cold weather while wearing gloves; I feel like the uppers are not as rigid as they could be for a more stiff fit. This is probably intentional, given what the boot is really, really good at.

The Nepals have a tighter lacing system. Based on my test drive so far, they seem much stiffer. I'm going to get them out in snow on Monday, so I might have some more feedback later if anyone is interested.

The sole is pretty much the same tread and composition. So no major differences there.

+1 on the fit being the most important. I have narrow feet and have good success with Sportiva's.

IMO, the integrated gator is too warm for most conditions that I am encounter.

I spend 80% of my time climbing vert ice and alpine mountaineering in UT and CO - I will get 70+ days in per season. I have been fine with the LS Silver Bullet (Trango Extreme Evo Light GTX). Trips to Ouray and Hyalite and my feet have stayed plenty warm in the Silver Bullets. I also have a pair of Batura 2.0 GTX - they are very warm. I wear them on the very coldest of days (maybe 4 or 5 times a year) and when we get up to Canada and it is VERY cold.

It is completely up to you but, it might be worth saving some money and taking a pass on the integrated gator.