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Vedauwoo

Original Post
patrick donahue · · Bend, OR · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 493

hey so I'm going to be in the Voo next weekend and it will be my first time. I was wondering what some good moderate under 5.10 would be to climb. i have doubles to 4 and one bigbro size 2 (purple). i was also wondering some good suggestions for some OW boulder problems under v3/v4. cheers

aSteel · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 235

Without at least one #5 I wouldn't be able to climb well over half the best moderates at Vedauwoo, but YMMV. Two #5s and a #6 go further here than anywhere else, if you can scrounge them up. Also, a quick 'Advanced' search on MP will yield a good collection of routes in your grade with high ratings from other climbers. Otherwise, and lacking a #5 you might consider:

- Ed's Crack (5.7)
- Satterfield's Crack (5.8, #5 would still be nice)
- TM Chimney (5.7+, #5 would still be nice, but your #2 BB might do the trick)
- The Jurassic Park/Icebox Area
- The Rat Brain on Poland Hill
- MRC Direct (5.9) to Straight Shooter (5.9+)

Have fun!

Don Ferris III · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 186

Try cupcake as well. V1

Danny Parker · · Teasdale, UT · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 120

spin to win it the nats 3star area is one of the best intro to invert boulder problems.
also beer crack is a classic, hands roof to some funky offwidth finish

Donovan Allen · · Soft Lake City · Joined May 2012 · Points: 356

^^^^^ Danny is the OW master

Eric Chabot · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 45

Climb and Punishment at Reynolds (5.9+) should go great on that rack! Definitely tape up for that one. You can then TR penis dimension (10c) from the same anchor

nate post · · Silverthorne · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 2,446

"Fallout" if your on the coke bottle wall was great. Do the direct start. I don't think you need anything bigger than a 4. While your in the area climb "Dollywood" its super exposed and fun sport route.

Mike Marmar · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 67
Ted's Trot on the Nautilus is a good one. Doesn't need anything bigger than #4.
Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 3,130

P1 of Captain Nemo is 5.8 and you'll need nothing larger than a #3 Camalot. The Lower Slots on the Nautilus are good introductory 5.7/5.8 and require at least 1 #5 Camalot. Mother #1 is a great 5.7 and although you could use a #6 I got by without one pretty easily. These are all on the Nautilus.

LIV Veraldi · · Lone Tree, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 495

Hatbox Chimney on Hasler's Hatbox - think it's a 7 or 8 or something, is a fine route . . . also over on Valley Massive, you will find quite a few - Bill Steel, etc. Over at Blair, there are some good hand cracks.

BoulderCharles · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 95

It's worth noting that many first-time visitors to the Voo find the OW climbs to be pretty tough so I usually recommend starting on something easier than you think is appropriate (Edward's Crack is great) and then go from there (Cupcake is another good option if you cruise Edward's as you will quickly find out if Voo 5.10+ is enjoyable for you).

Also, I think P1 of Friday the 13th would fit your rack well if it is actually free of climbers.

Hiro Protagonist · · Colorado · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 290

I can recommend Rat's Brain area (listed on Poland Hill here on MP). Shortish approach, short climbs and not offwidth for the most part. Good intro to the area and excellent views - you can whip out the book to SEE where you're going next.

As others said, it's not worth showing up without a #5 and #6. You can climb a lot if you have one of each - you'll just have to push it along with you and you wiggle up the offwidths. A second #5 would definitely allow better pro.

You're only staying for the weekend? Perhaps Poland is not the best way to spend time, it'll just ensure that's your not scared and frustrated the entire trip. :p

I'll be there on the same weekend doing a volunteer project, I'll assume you're one of the specks I see on the rocks. :)

Enjoy! Bring beater clothes, long sleeves and tape. LOL

patrick donahue · · Bend, OR · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 493

thanks for all the info guys its truly helping out. i think I'm going to purchase a few cams on my way up there (#5 n #6). i just have another question since i have a number 2 bb that crosses into the #5 range is that efficient enough with using a #5 that i can slide up with me as i climb and have the BB stationary to protect a run out ext?

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35

Two things.

First, a big bro is rarely useful at Vedauwoo. The flared nature makes it difficult to place and I'd rather not spend my time trying to find bumps that line up into something parallel. The time to use it is at the edge of a lip so the crack doesn't swallow the rope.

Second, and I only say this as someone who learned to climb at vedauwoo and has done hundreds of routes at most grades out there, you absolutely do not need a 5 or 6 unless you are specifically searching out wide climbs. The 4 will get placed even on hand cracks but the 5 and 6 can totally be avoided unless you want to get on routes that require them. I do however believe that your leg is adequate to put into the crack if you don't have the gear for it.

Head over to the Nautilus one day and Reynolds hill the next. Climb whatever is in your grade in those areas. If you look up and it's too wide, trust your eyes.

The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460
nicelegs wrote:Two things. First, a big bro is rarely useful at Vedauwoo. The flared nature makes it difficult to place and I'd rather not spend my time trying to find bumps that line up into something parallel. The time to use it is at the edge of a lip so the crack doesn't swallow the rope. Second, and I only say this as someone who learned to climb at vedauwoo and has done hundreds of routes at most grades out there, you absolutely do not need a 5 or 6 unless you are specifically searching out wide climbs. The 4 will get placed even on hand cracks but the 5 and 6 can totally be avoided unless you want to get on routes that require them. I do however believe that your leg is adequate to put into the crack if you don't have the gear for it. Head over to the Nautilus one day and Reynolds hill the next. Climb whatever is in your grade in those areas. If you look up and it's too wide, trust your eyes.
This ^^^

Vedauwoo is unique because of the wide cracks, but classic because every other variety of cracks are represented in a worthy way.
Petsfed 00 · · Snohomish, WA · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 989

My standard rack at vedauwoo was doubles to fists, but rarely packed even one #5 unless the wide was on the menu. You'll be just fine leaving the big bro in the car, provided you pick the right lines.
Climb and Punishment, Plumb Line, Straight and Narrow, Edward's Crack, these are all classics that do not need anything bigger than a #4. You could also get on Skull out at Poland Hill, and Sugar Crack, and Kim (and even toprope Fantasia and Cool Jet) without breaking out the #5, all great lines.

fluff head · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 65

all great suggestions. i think a day at poland, nautilus, or reynolds would have you set.

if you want an easy access, quick, road-side thrashing of the OW bouldering variety, I would suggest some fisticuffs with the temperamental temptress Alice, clocking in at an ego shattering V1

Petsfed 00 · · Snohomish, WA · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 989
VerticalUrge wrote:all great suggestions. i think a day at poland, nautilus, or reynolds would have you set. if you want an easy access, quick, road-side thrashing of the OW bouldering variety, I would suggest some fisticuffs with the temperamental temptress Alice, clocking in at an ego shattering V1
Although getting down might be a bit exciting now that the tree is gone.
fluff head · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 65
Brian Scoggins wrote: Although getting down might be a bit exciting now that the tree is gone.
you can always step down onto the large pile of bones that has collected at the base of the down climb due to the absence of the tree.

Or you could just nonchalantly down climb the uninvolved 4th class crack on the back of the boulder
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Wyoming, Montana, Dakotas
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