Conditioning training for wide cracks and chimneys?
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Do y'all think that short bouts (+/- 10 min) of intense movements of varying muscle groups (such as what is called "met-con" in the Crossfit community) has aided your rock climbing? I got worked over by a steep offwidth recently. When I reached the belay, the sensations I felt were reminiscent of how I felt following such met-con style exercises (though not quite huffing and puffing as badly). I guess this question is specific to wide crack stuff where finger strength isn't the limiting factor. |
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And this one To further answer your question, yes, I think that the type of high intensity muscle confusion workouts you mention are going to be pretty good training for off widths. But I will say that while they're always going to be burly, increased technique will reduce the strain you feel when climbing the wide. Oftentimes at Vedauwoo if I just force myself to take a couple deep breaths and relax, i find the climbing easier and I'm not gassed as quickly. Though, to be fair, on my last trip, I lowered off of the "pitch one" anchors of Horn's Mother because I was fairly certain I was about to vomit. So, yeah, maybe some "met-con" would have helped. (Also, taking a swig of whiskey from my buddy's flask before racking up was probably a bad idea) |
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Alligator wrestling. |
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mucci wrote:Alligator wrestling.Especially because it also serves as effective mental training for offwidth climbing. I also think the answer to your question is yes. I think this kind of training also benefits your body as a whole (and helps your climbing) more than climbers give it credit for (although less than the Crossfit crowd gives it credit for). |
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i look at it like training different energy systems - you have maximal strength at one end, anaerobic endurance (lactic acid threshold), and aerobic endurance |