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Conditioning training for wide cracks and chimneys?

Original Post
jaredj · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 165

Do y'all think that short bouts (+/- 10 min) of intense movements of varying muscle groups (such as what is called "met-con" in the Crossfit community) has aided your rock climbing? I got worked over by a steep offwidth recently. When I reached the belay, the sensations I felt were reminiscent of how I felt following such met-con style exercises (though not quite huffing and puffing as badly). I guess this question is specific to wide crack stuff where finger strength isn't the limiting factor.

The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460
Check out this article

And this one

To further answer your question, yes, I think that the type of high intensity muscle confusion workouts you mention are going to be pretty good training for off widths. But I will say that while they're always going to be burly, increased technique will reduce the strain you feel when climbing the wide. Oftentimes at Vedauwoo if I just force myself to take a couple deep breaths and relax, i find the climbing easier and I'm not gassed as quickly.

Though, to be fair, on my last trip, I lowered off of the "pitch one" anchors of Horn's Mother because I was fairly certain I was about to vomit. So, yeah, maybe some "met-con" would have helped. (Also, taking a swig of whiskey from my buddy's flask before racking up was probably a bad idea)
mucci · · sf ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 655

Alligator wrestling.

Nick K · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 30
mucci wrote:Alligator wrestling.
Especially because it also serves as effective mental training for offwidth climbing.

I also think the answer to your question is yes. I think this kind of training also benefits your body as a whole (and helps your climbing) more than climbers give it credit for (although less than the Crossfit crowd gives it credit for).
Steve Marshall · · Concord NH · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 45

i look at it like training different energy systems - you have maximal strength at one end, anaerobic endurance (lactic acid threshold), and aerobic endurance

most sport climbs take ~2-10 mins of physical exertion to complete. right in the range for anaerobic activity. so to me, it stands to reason that training the anaerobic energy system will help a lot.

other athletic endeavors that rely heavily on the anaerobic system because they last 2-10mins:

Rowing a 2k (~6min) - Running 400m - 1600m (1 mi - ~ 5.5min) - most crossfit MetCons

all these activities need a highly conditioned anaerobic system but also require a very good aerobic engine to be fast, so athletes that compete in the 2k row or 1 mile run also spend a lot of time doing long distance aerobic training. something like 80% of energy expended in a 2k row comes from the aerobic energy system. something to think about from climbers. then, the point of climbing is not to output the absolute most Watts of power you can for 6 minutes straight like it is with rowing.

obviously for climbing you also need a lot of localized maximal strength which these other sports dont require. but training a strong anerobic engine (the point of crossfit metcons) and a decent aerobic engine means you can go for longer and recover faster in between hard moves. strength training (e.g. hangboarding, intense climbing, and hard core training) helps actually make the moves. metcons help you do more of them. i look at metcons as a similar training effect to say 4x4 bouldering routines.

i dont think it makes a difference whether it is offwidth or not, but maybe its more relevant for offwidth because you're more likely to be constantly in some state of strenuous muscle contraction and need to sustain that the whole route, as opposed to hard move - rest - hard move

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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