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Foot Strength

Original Post
Kerwin Loukusa · · PNW · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 135

As a long time boulderer who recently got addicted to trad, I find one of my limiting factors while onsighting or climbing hard pitches is the strength of my feet. I often times must find rest positions that allow me to stand on my heels, and rest my feet even though my forearms and hands are not pumped. For reference the majority of the trad climbing I do is on granite and is very technical in nature requiring the weigh to stay over the feet most of the time.

Does/has anyone else struggled with this? Is this just a symptom of progressing from 5.9->5.11+ in a year, and not giving my feet time to develop the strength and endurance needed for these routes?

Also any specific exercises people have used to strengthen their feet?

MP · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 2

wear a stiffer shoe

Kerwin Loukusa · · PNW · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 135
mpech wrote:wear a stiffer shoe
I have tried stiffer shoes, helps a little but does not fix the problem. Additionally it seems to be a band-aid fix to a larger problem, like taping fingers to help prevent a pulley injury.
Jim Fox · · Westminster, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 50

Hike or run wearing "barefoot" style running shoes (NOT those flaky shoes with the toes) from New Balance, Merrell, Brooks, Vivobarefoot, et al.

Use your toes to grip and lift a towel.

Mathias · · Loveland, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 306

I have found foot fatigue when wearing my 5.10 moccs. Then I bought some 5.10 VCS, which are stiffer. Now I use the moccs to train with (gym climbing) so that my feet get stronger. I keep the VCS for bouldering, but will likely use them for edgy outdoor climbing routes too.

Patrick Shyvers · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 10

You want to strengthen your feet specifically, or your calves too?

Either way you can start with weighted heel raises, toe raises, and running or hiking (especially uphill- stay on your toes!)

Of course, it would also be interesting to watch your footwork. Are you standing on toe-point when you could be edging?

Kerwin Loukusa · · PNW · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 135
Jim Fox wrote:Hike or run wearing "barefoot" style running shoes (NOT those flaky shoes with the toes) from New Balance, Merrell, Brooks, Vivobarefoot, et al. Use your toes to grip and lift a towel.
I wear sanuks and vivo's about 90% of the time. I will try the towel exercise.
Kerwin Loukusa · · PNW · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 135
Patrick Shyvers wrote:You want to strengthen your feet specifically, or your calves too? Either way you can start with weighted heel raises, toe raises, and running or hiking (especially uphill- stay on your toes!) Of course, it would also be interesting to watch your footwork. Are you standing on toe-point when you could be edging?
Mainly an issue with feet, but some increased calf strength would probably not hurt. I am very conscious about placing my feet in the best position possible (edging vs. toe point, etc), but sometimes the footholds are only so big.
Jon Rhoderick · · Redmond, OR · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 966

Maybe your shoes are too narrow. I find stemming can really hurt your foot just behind your toes.

Anyway when I'm climbing a route like that, I shake out my feet at good rests as well as my hands

Patrick Shyvers · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 10
kerwinl wrote: Mainly an issue with feet, but some increased calf strength would probably not hurt. I am very conscious about placing my feet in the best position possible (edging vs. toe point, etc), but sometimes the footholds are only so big.
Anything that gets you on the ball of your feet then. Weights, barefoot running, stairmaster, whatever you like.

It's not unusual for that to be a weak point. We don't use our foot muscles & calves much because of the rolling gait that is naturally adopted with shoes, so it is underdeveloped in many people. Usually the calf is the weakest link, but maybe you've got strong calves.
J. Albers · · Colorado · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 1,926
kerwinl wrote: I have tried stiffer shoes, helps a little but does not fix the problem. Additionally it seems to be a band-aid fix to a larger problem, like taping fingers to help prevent a pulley injury.
Stiff shoes are not a bandaid. Thin granite is my favorite type of climbing and thus my feet are pretty strong, but I can certainly still tell the difference between my different shoes based on stiffness.

While I think that you probably do need to find a way to strengthen your feet (time on the rock will probably manage this best BTW), do find yourself a pair of stiff shoes. I prefer Anasazi Blancos for thin techy hard stuff, but alas that shoe is no longer made so you will need to find something else.
Stephen Minchin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 10

I had the exact same problem, and have been trying to fix this by spending a fair bit of time standing on the edge of my doorstep etc in my climbing shoes, with 1-3 cm of my toes on the step. Stand like that till your feet die, rest for a few, then repeats couple more times. I've been doing this a couple of times a week for six months and have seen huge improvements. It sucks, hurts, is boring, and makes your wide laugh at you, but is worth it.

MP · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 2

stephen, i hope your wide doesn't read this...

Kerwin Loukusa · · PNW · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 135
Stephen Minchin wrote:I had the exact same problem, and have been trying to fix this by spending a fair bit of time standing on the edge of my doorstep etc in my climbing shoes, with 1-3 cm of my toes on the step. Stand like that till your feet die, rest for a few, then repeats couple more times. I've been doing this a couple of times a week for six months and have seen huge improvements. It sucks, hurts, is boring, and makes your wide laugh at you, but is worth it.
Does not get more sport specific then that. I if it would help to wear a backpack or weight vest to increase the load and help increase strength.
Stephen Minchin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 10

Damn it. Wife. She's slim. Hi Ange. Love you. Carry on.

Chris Rice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 55

I found a novel foot strengthener for climbing (or anything else I guess). It's the wife's mini tramp - I bounce barefooted landing on different parts of the feet but mostly on the toes inside and outside. Do mostly two feet but some one foot as well - one foot also works balance somewhat, at least for me. I'll do a minute say on the outside edge, a minute of the inside edge, on toes of right foot, left foot etc etc. Not only did it make my feet stronger but my calf muscles are way stronger as well. It's worth a try.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

On lead hand drilling works well..barring that, i suggest top roping..over and over. It's boring but you don't worry about anything and get to concentrate on footwork

Kerwin Loukusa · · PNW · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 135

After a lot of research I stumbled across this device:





I built one and have been using it by standing on leg for as long as possible while resting between hangboard sets. The improvements in foot strength over just 3 weeks is very encouraging. My feet generally cramp up less on routes and I am able to climb more continuously without needing to stop and 'shake out' my feet.

During the process of research I made the discovery that I have hypermobility in my foot, meaning that I need to exert extra muscle force to hold my foot in a stable position. I am guessing that it is not to common among rock climbers which may explain why there is not much info out there.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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