Mountain Project Logo

Seeking Strong Partner for Red Dihedral, Incredible hulk, Late October

Original Post
Zak Krenzer · · Auburn, WA · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 255

- Looking for a partner who cruises high 10's and is familiar with alpine style climbing. I'd like to make a run at the Red Dihedral on the Incredible Hulk. Experience with this area is preferable. Ideally I'd like to get up there a day or two before and climb in good weather. It seems that it's really late season for this climb, but given the warmer than usual temps and a really dry year, I think it can be done.

Me: I'm 25 with 200+ pitches under my belt. I'm on a 2 month road trip, ending back in seattle during the second week of November. Currently I'm staying outside of Yosemite Valley, I'll be headed to Joshua Tree around the 20th if I can't find a partner for this one.

Notable Climbs:

- Fairview Dome - Regular Route 5.9 12 Pitches
- Royal Arches - Royal Arches Route 5.7 A0 15 pitches
- Mt. Whitney - East Face 5.7 Grade III 11 Pitches
- Cutthroat Peak - Southeast Buttress 5.8 Grade III+ 12 Pitches
- Liberty Bell - Rapple Grapple 5.8+ and Becky Route 5.7- 4 pitches each
- Concord Tower - The North Face Directismo 5.8+ 3 pitches
- Forbidden Peak - West Ridge 5.6

You'll Notice that I'm lacking in the 5.10 range when it comes to alpine climbing. This is why I'm looking for a strong partner, I want to push my grade a bit. I'm very comfortable leading 5.8 in almost any setting, 5.9 is doable but a little less secure, I've led no 5.10 trad.

Strengths: Good anchor building skills. Great at following and cleaning gear (never left a piece behind). Quick with belay transitions, organized racking. Good attitude, strong hiker, endurance for long days in the mountains. Rarely takes falls.

Shortcomings: I haven't lead many pitches at 5.9 or above. Off-widths. Shallow pods and shallow finger cracks. Skinny guy syndrome - I eat a TON and need to get a snack in at least every 3 pitches.

I Have a 60m Mammut 8.7 serenity, Double rack .3-#4, plenty of trad draws ect. Lots of motivation and an eagerness to learn new techniques from someone with a few more years of experience.

You can view my blog at
www.thepathlesstraveled.me

My e-mail is XJkrenzer@gmail.com - Zak

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Agreed, Zak. I hope you find a partner.

Edit; Zak, you removed your second post? I thought it was on the money.

Zak Krenzer · · Auburn, WA · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 255
FrankPS wrote:Agreed, Zak. I hope you find a partner. Edit; Zak, you removed your second post? I thought it was on the money.
Hey thanks frank! I'm here to talk climbing, not to talk smack to people who have to put others down to feel good about themselves. That's not really my bag.
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35

Zak, you're 25, you've got time to learn to lead well enough to climb it right and come back.

FWIW, I was there in July a few years ago, 105 in Bishop. It was chilly in the morning and uncomfortably cold in the shade before the sun hit the wall. Near dusk, as we were descending, it was freezing. This was during a heat wave in July.

I wouldn't expect that anyone, especially a beginner, would have a chance at finishing in what will be an incredibly short window that it's warm enough to climb.

If you get yourself benighted, you'll definitely be looking at hypothermia or worse. Stay in j-tree, the high sierra isn't on your list for the year.

Zak Krenzer · · Auburn, WA · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 255

Thanks for the info, that was exactly what i was looking for! Maybe next season huh?

ze dirtbag · · Tahoe · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 50

i'm with legs, where the hulk is located channels in a lot of wind. this creates a few issues, communication and exposure being the two biggest ones for you. even with a rope gun, i don't think the hulk during shoulder season is in the cards for you.

JSlack · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 155

I talked to a guy a few days ago who did the Red Dihedral a couple weeks ago. He said they had to kick steps on the upper half of the climb due to all the snow accumulation. Sounds like the season is over.

Zak, in my opinion, classic climbs like the RD are best saved for when you are strong enough to make a solid attempt. Get some 5.10 leads under your belt in Yos / Joshua Tree then make a go at it next Summer. It's great to want to push yourself, but you'll find that 5.10 in the alpine is a lot different than 5.10 on the roadside. You'll be much more proud of an onsight on an amazing route than of following a strong leader up it prematurely. It's a great time of year to get on Serenity Crack + Sons of Yesterday, though!

Zak Krenzer · · Auburn, WA · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 255
JSlack wrote:I talked to a guy a few days ago who did the Red Dihedral a couple weeks ago. He said they had to kick steps on the upper half of the climb due to all the snow accumulation. Sounds like the season is over. Zak, in my opinion, classic climbs like the RD are best saved for when you are strong enough to make a solid attempt. Get some 5.10 leads under your belt in Yos / Joshua Tree then make a go at it next Summer. It's great to want to push yourself, but you'll find that 5.10 in the alpine is a lot different than 5.10 on the roadside. You'll be much more proud of an onsight on an amazing route than of following a strong leader up it prematurely. It's a great time of year to get on Serenity Crack + Sons of Yesterday, though!
Thanks for the advice!
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
Post a Reply to "Seeking Strong Partner for Red Dihedral, Incred…"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.