Help narrow down Arcteryx hardshell, Alpha FL vs Beta AR vs Beta LT Hybrid?

I would like to get a hardshell jacket (or two actually one for ice climbing and one all around winter snow / rain hardshell)

I am pretty set on a dead-bird. I like their clothing and fit works for me as well.

FOR ICE CLIMBING:
I was thinking of Alpha FL. Alpine focused jacket, with Gore-Tex Pro shell with the new model. Reviews are excellent for it. I would mainly be using it for Ice climbing cragging, maybe a little alpine ice climbing as well. The only drawback is no pitzips but I can live with that.

Beta LT HYBRID is another contender, though im leaning more towards the ALPHA FL.

FOR ALL AROUND USE:
This is for all around use and wearing around town. Im leaning towards Beta AR or maybe Beta LT Hybrid... Though Beta AR is arguably more durable and will last longer with better protection using GoreTex Pro vs Paclite.

Any suggestions will help. I've done my research and just looking for any extra advice.

Thanks,

Roman

FOR ALL AROUND USE: This is for all around use and wearing around town. Im leaning towards Beta AR or maybe Beta LT Hybrid... Though Beta AR is arguably more durable and will last longer with better protection using GoreTex Pro vs Paclite. Any suggestions will help. I've done my research and just looking for any extra advice. Thanks, Roman

You could always buy an umbrella and light $500 on fire for the same cost.

I would obviously not be buying at full price lol

Arcteryx Jackets always look stylish, so that's not really a consideration. I wear my alpha LT everywhere. (Has pit zips).

I'd def try for pit zips, I dont ever use them ice climbing. But i use them when using my jacket as a rainshell in warmer months. Or when I'm dialing in comfort in RI's akward warm but cold windy days.

I'm a little confused with there website and not up to date on what greek-acro combination means what. But my alpha LT is everything I ever wanted. Rain Ice Summer Winter Rafting, it works. I guess what I'm saying is make sure you don't get an insulated one. They're gear is too expensive and your hardshell should be 4-season versatile.

Roman G wrote:I would obviously not be buying at full price lol

I just went through essentially this same process, with the difference that I don't ice climb and I'm just buying one jacket. I need my jacket for skiing, rock climbs, alpine climbs, general wear, etc., so the below probably applies more to your general purpose jacket. Here's where I came out.

-I want the jacket to work four seasons (rain shell in summer, snow shell in winter). Thus, shell only, no insulation.

-Bulk is important to me. I wanted a shell that would fit in a midsize camelback for long routes. Shells bulkier than that just always seem like a hassle to take. Seems like all the additional features (pit zips and whatnot) add bulk. After buying this, I didn't really want to spend another $300 on an ultralight rain jacket/shell. (I did however spend that $300 on some new cams)

-Handwarmer pockets are really important to me. I've had shells without them and it drives me nuts. I like to have at belays, when wearing in town, to warm my hands in cool, light rain, and just for general stowage. Thus, I went for Beta over Alpha.

-Pit zips matter to me in the rain, but not so much in snow. I live in Utah, so it's not real rainy. Still nice to have, but I don't like the extra bulk. Thus, pit zips didn't really matter to me.

-Beta AR is 1/3 heavier than the Beta LT. I believe the materials are about the same, but fit's a bit different. In general, lighter and less bulky is almost always better for me. (I don't do big expeditions, and if I do, I'll buy a new coat anyway)

-I think (?) the hood is non-removable for all the hooded jackets. I didn't really like the look and extra bulk and weight of the high collar of the AR since the hood is always there regardless, so I went LT. Personal call.

-Seems like I remember people saying Paclite is much less durable than Goretex Pro. I want this sucker to last as long as possible. Thus, I went with Beta LT instead of the Beta LT Hybrid.

-I think that the supertopo gear review folks loved the Alpha, but I really liked the Beta and found very few differences. May be worth looking at both in person.

You may have done this, but I'd recommend trying them on in the store (REI etc). Fit changes pretty significantly between the different styles (AR, SV, LT, etc) even in the same style (ie Betas).

How about the Alpha Comp Hoody? I've gone to a hybrid last year (Pata mixed master), waterproof with a softshell fit/feel.

My ex had the old Arc'teryx Hybrid, it became her go-to shell when she needed more than a softshell.

Isn't the Beta shorter in front than some of the Alphas or Theta AR? Makes it tough to keep tucked into a harness. This might not be true of the newer ones but I think it was of the old. I'd rec checking out the Theta AR too, I like the longer cut torso (but I'm tall). I would def get a 3 layer jacket (Goretex ProShell or Pro, not Paclite) as it will be more comfortable (doesn't feel as clammy) and more durable.

Not on your list, but the new Alpha AR ticks all the boxes for me: Gore-Tex Pro, dual chest pockets, climbing-cut (i.e. long), harness HemLock inserts and pit zips. Have the FL (both old version in Active Shell and new version in Pro Shell) and prefer the AR. Mostly due to the two pockets, but then again, I really like having storage options.

I just went through this exact same process because I was able to get a good deal on Arc'teryx jackets. My criteria for picking a jacket were almost identical to yours, and I ended up going with Beta AR.

I didn't go with the Beta LT because it didn't have pit zips. I didn't get the Beta LT Hybrid because the Beta AR has Gore-Tex Pro. I probably would have gotten the Alpha FL, but the thing that kept me away from it was that the chest pockets open across your body -- meaning, you use your left hand to access the pocket on the right side of the jacket, and vice versa. If I were going to use my jacket for only alpine and ice, then that would have been fine, but I also use it for hiking, backpacking and general around-town use, and I like to keep my hands in my pockets while walking around or just hanging out. The Alpha FL doesn't allow you to do that, so I went with the Beta AR. It's a bizarre criterion, I know. If your not a weirdo like me and you don't care about being able to hang out with your hands in your pockets, then I would recommend the Alpha FL.

Thanks everyone.