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New Bolts on Dags in Beanland

Bruce Hildenbrand · · Silicon Valley/Boulder · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 3,615

Here's some more info on the bolt removal on Dags in Beanland. The 14 bolts we removed had 3-4" Power's 5-piece plated bolts, but, for some reason I really don't understand, used homemade hangers. Not only were these hangers made out of what appears to be standard 1/8" metal L-bar stock, but the carabiner hole drilled into the stock was only 3/8". That means that just about every carabiner out there would not fit through the hole!!!!!

Bolt with homemade hanger and 3/8" carabiner hole.

14 bolts removed from Dags in Beanland.

To add to the whole sordid affair, the person who placed these bolts used a liberal amount of silicone seal around the bolt hole and the base of the hanger, so much so that he basically glued the hanger to the rock. I tried to remove as much of the glue as possible, but I was not very successful.

It remains a mystery as to why someone would add 14 protection bolts to a climb that originally had only 9 protection bolts and then use poorly crafted homemade hangers with a carabiner hole so small that virtually no carabiner could even clip the bolt.

Ben Scott · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 3,932

Good work removing that shit-show.
Some people just prefer to be ghosts in the machine.

I wish Bosch required you to pass a "Bolting Ethics" test
before selling you a drill. arg...

Andrew Gram · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,725

Good job - nice to see such a botch job fixed.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,705
Bruce Hildenbrand wrote: It remains a mystery as to why someone would add 14 protection bolts to a climb that originally had only 9 protection bolts and then use poorly crafted homemade hangers with a carabiner hole so small that virtually no carabiner could even clip the bolt.
Well, as Forrest Gump would quote his mother:
"Stupid is as stupid does."
Guy doing one dumb thing just might get a pattern going...
Mitch Musci · · Estes Park, CO · Joined Apr 2002 · Points: 665

Thanks Bruce for taking the initiative to get the job done!

Dankasaurus · · Lyons, CO · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 85

Thanks also to Mitch.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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