What do you have on your self-rescue carabiner?

Prusiks, dual leg loops and two for the upper body. That's about it, everything else is on me already, including the knife in the chalk bag.

Bob Johnson wrote:What do you have on your self-rescue carabiner?'

My what?

matt c. wrote:so have you ever used your shoelaces in a climbing capacity? please, do tell.

Yes, as a rap anchor.

Bob Johnson wrote:Hello Everyone! I'm curious to know what everyone has on their self-rescue carabiner!

a helicopter. :)

I'm another one of those gumbys that doesn't have a bail biner.

hikingdrew wrote:Bail kit on small locker: rap ring 6'worth of supertape knotted as a runner small knife Self rescue on another small locker: prussiks

^ Pretty much this setup with a couple differences -

Bail kit on an ultralight wiregate:
2 aluminum rap rings
2 shoulder length knotted 5/8 runners
Trango piranha knife

Self rescue on a small locker:
prussik set (chest and Texas)

Having 2x rings and runners gives more flexibility - I often use the runners on a climb. Plus when bailing - or even descending - more than one rap is likely. About once a year I end up leaving both sets on a descent somewhere. I like the Tibloc but prussik cords are multi-purpose - can use as slings or part of an anchor.

I bring one or both biners as needed depending on the climb.

Bryan Gilmore wrote: My what?

Exactly..my what ?

I call it my Oh $#!T kit. On an old neutrino I keep a 5mm loop for rappel backup, a small spyderco skeleton knife that is taped shut for hacking off old webbing, and a small neoprene sack that holds tiny headlamp (plus my main one if there is any real chance of being benighted), the topo, and a few snacks. I use a piece of webbing as my chalk bag belt that has turned into bail webbing a couple times too.

John Wilder wrote:trango shark nut tool (knife built in) and a carabiner with a prusik on it. recently upgraded to the tech-web slings, so i'll probably ditch the prusik since i'll have those.

--------------------
John...totally the bomb. I am so cave I had to look up both items. I try to avoid self rescue. the trango looks cool.

A wingsuit.

i carry a locker with a tibloc on my harness. a cheapo e blanket and lighter in the chalk bag pocket and use 5mm cord for the waist strap. done

rgold wrote:I'm another one of those gumbys that doesn't have a bail biner.

I am curious what you guys do if you need prussiks but dont have the slings, ie, they are with your partner, or you ran out on lead?

How do you ascend in an emergency situation? Even with a plaquette, you still need at least one prussik to unload the rope... unless you have a really cool trick that I REALLY want to know about.

Pete Spri wrote: I am curious what you guys do if you need prussiks but dont have the slings, ie, they are with your partner, or you ran out on lead? How do you ascend in an emergency situation? Even with a plaquette, you still need at least one prussik to unload the rope... unless you have a really cool trick that I REALLY want to know about.

Uh, I usually climb, I guess. How often do you run into emergency situations where you need to ascend a rope or escape the belay? Like you said, a sling can be used. And if I need to bail, I'll burn some gear, rather than always carry around booty gear that I almost never use.

That said, I do carry a knife and petzl e+lite in the zipper pocket of my chalk bag.

doak wrote: Uh, I usually climb, I guess. How often do you run into emergency situations where you need to ascend a rope or escape the belay? Like you said, a sling can be used. And if I need to bail, I'll burn some gear, rather than always carry around booty gear that I almost never use. That said, I do carry a knife and petzl e+lite in the zipper pocket of my chalk bag.

When you need a sling/cord to prussik, it is often not a good scenario and likely could be or could turn into an emergency. The attitude of "I just climb, I haven't hit an emergency yet" describes the exact situation that I don't want to run into; myself or my partner not prepared to deal with it. IE, the point I'm making is that you need a dedicated sling that you always keep on you, not just gear that you are trading off.

Unless Rgold or Mr Breeder have a trick that I am unaware of, which is why I'm asking.

Jack Daniels

But if I am going heavy I will also carry,

-Spot Locator, and a Smart phone that calls the helicopter for me because it has a sensor built in to know when I am in trouble.

-Rescue flare gun

-ABS air bag

Whathever I have on me, if I'm going further in the boonies I'll grab my spiderco rescue knife + fox40 whistle.

Pete Spri wrote: I am curious what you guys do if you need prussiks but dont have the slings, ie, they are with your partner, or you ran out on lead? How do you ascend in an emergency situation? Even with a plaquette, you still need at least one prussik to unload the rope... unless you have a really cool trick that I REALLY want to know about.

Chalk bag tied on with a loop of 6mm cord. Lose that belt that came with it. Always have a shoulder sling to clip gear as you second.

wacky tabacky

Luc wrote:firefox whistle.

"hey Bill...where'd ja think that coyote got that there whistle from"?

Pete Spri wrote: When you need a sling/cord to prussik, it is often not a good scenario and likely could be or could turn into an emergency. The attitude of "I just climb, I haven't hit an emergency yet" describes the exact situation that I don't want to run into; myself or my partner not prepared to deal with it. IE, the point I'm making is that you need a dedicated sling that you always keep on you, not just gear that you are trading off. Unless Rgold or Mr Breeder have a trick that I am unaware of, which is why I'm asking.

as long as you can get a loose rope end safely ... penberthy or blakes hitch with the rope

i showed examples a while back, MPers didnt seem that interested for the most part =P

mountainproject.com/v/pruss…

not to mention if you use a nylon sling as your "PAS" (rather than one of those $$$$ fancy one trick ponies) youll always have a "prusik" ... again something i mentioned before, but dont go yapping about PASes here !!!

;)