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Etiquette Reminder

Dan Felix · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 35
Rob Davis wrote:story time:
Was that Sunday? Glad we decided to go caving on Sunday instead of hitting the carriage road when we saw how fast the parking lot was filling up....
George Christiana · · Jersey City, NJ · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0
Dan Felix wrote: Was that Sunday? Glad we decided to go caving on Sunday instead of hitting the carriage road when we saw how fast the parking lot was filling up....
Where'd you go? I've done some caving up at Bonticou and out near Shingle Gully in Sam's point. Always looking for new spots.
Laine Christman · · Reno, NV · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 1,305
csproul wrote:I don't believe leaders have any more right to a route than top-ropers. I do think it is pretty poor to gang rope and monopolize a popular route for extended period of time, especially if that route is commonly led. Leaving a top-rope unattended, unused, or waiting for someone to return and climb it later...pull it, climb through and if you're feeling nice, replace their top rope.
+1
SethG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 291

I thought there were rules in the Gunks about how large guided groups are allowed to be. This to my mind is a bigger threat than top-ropers in general. It seems to me that big groups who hog entire walls for hours and hours, giving every inexperienced non-climber a chance to grease up the routes, are the bane of crags all over the country.

I'm not generally one for calling in the authorities but bandit guiding in the Gunks I think deserves to be outed, especially if the groups are bigger than they are allowed to be. The resource is too limited.

Eric Chabot · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 45

Ok: I am planning to go to the gunks next weekend and do a little first-time aid practice on Ken's Crack. As one of the few climbs of that type in the gunks (splitter crack, right?) I will need to be on it for quite a while so you guys might wanna go elsewhere (gonna do 6-10 aid laps to get my systems dialed). Oh yeah and one of my homies who has never climbed before is gonna clean my gear and TR between my aid burns. I am gonna re-lead it every time, so does this count as TR'ing?

Do you gunkies think I will be able to be first on it if I get up at 5 (staying at camp slime) or should I go earlier?

PS I heard there's this other area further north in NYS where you can climb, my buddy at the gym was telling me about...something about a giant state park with no people and -get this- you don't even have to pay $17 to get in?! has anyone been there? Is it ever crowded?

Happiegrrrl · · Gunks · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 60

That's got to be a troll.... If not, I cannot wait to see the posts next week about it. There will be frothing at the mouth, via text, I can guess.

Why not at least go to the nears and get on Easter Time Too if you're looking for a crack? Or, try King of P(I think is the name) It is only a 5.3, but since you are dialing aid, what does that matter?

Oh, and Ken's is not a "splitter crack." Unless you're using "splitter" as an adjective(as hammock homies might be wont to do). n that case....Ken's is not a "splitter crack."

Christian RodaoBack · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 1,486

Took 5 hours but you finally caught one Eric..

Luc-514 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 12,506

LOL
I'd prefer sharpening my hooking moves on Son of Easy O.

Nathan Self · · Louisiana · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 90

No parking: pull the rope and climb.

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
Eric Chabot wrote:Ok: PS I heard there's this other area further north in NYS where you can climb, my buddy at the gym was telling me about...something about a giant state park with no people and -get this- you don't even have to pay $17 to get in?! has anyone been there? Is it ever crowded?
It's lonely there. Last weekend I only saw people I knew. I had the only top rope on Poko Monday. Tuesday night no one was at the Beer Walls. Wednesday there was only a couple hours of dry rock... Stay downstate, not worth the drive.
Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,945
Bill Kirby wrote: It's lonely there. Last weekend I only saw people I knew. I had the only top rope on Poko Monday. Tuesday night no one was at the Beer Walls. Wednesday there was only a couple hours of dry rock... Stay downstate, not worth the drive.
Now you've ruined it...
Jay Harrison · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 6,307
Gunks Jesse wrote:I had some little kids with me and all the routes I wanted were being "guided" on by guides with HUGE groups.
Please - I used to guide at the Gunks. Use that term for actual guides, licensed by NY, tested by PCGI/AMGA, and permitted by the Preserve. These professionals are indeed required to limit their group size, as well as a host of other restrictions*.
I'm not saying Guides and Guiding Companies shouldn't have these restrictions forced on them - heavens knows it's the only way to limit greed - but the great majority of guides at the Gunks are self-disciplined, conscientious workers. They have to set up TRs, have to put their crew on them, and have to do so in a timely manner. By and large, they succeed. If I'm looking for a specific route and notice there is a real guide on it, I can generally relax for an hour or less. They get done and out of the way.

  • Most of which arose from the behavior of pseudo-guided groups: outing clubs from colleges, scouts, schools, fraternities, and/or gangs of buddies.
Luc-514 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 12,506

Eric, didn't see any aiding on Ken's today, chickened out for a nicer day?

Eric Chabot · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 45

Ended up going to rumney instead. The bolt ladders there are the sicketiest!!!

Best aid climbing in the Northeast, you don't even have to place gear.

Pierre Vaz · · New York, NY · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 0

I recently had someone quote this 'leader has priority no matter what' BS to me while i was setting up a TR..
I've been climbing at the Gunks for over 30 years, and in all that time not once have I ever requested that anyone pull their top rope
so that I could lead a route there. If a route is taken, I will simply move on and climb something else.
I have also freely offered runs on any of my top rope setups to other climbers, set top ropes for the next group when taking down my setups,
and pulled ropes aside to let another party lead if there wasn't anyone climbing on the route at that particular moment.
However, if I'm already in position up top, have set my anchors, and am about to drop a top rope down to my small party waiting below,
I consider it rude for anyone to just walk up and attempt to lay claim to the route simply because of their desire to lead it.
If you pull a rope that I've set up without asking permission first, well... we're going to have quite the discussion about that when you come back
for your gear, guaranteed.
An experienced leader will move on, lead something else, and come back later.
There's no shortage of quality climbing at any grade at the Gunks, but if you're dead set on climbing a specific route and it is taken, then you wait your turn.

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

Gang top roping  camping sucks.   Especially if they are  just  camping out and  not even climbing.. leader  hangs the  rope,  everyone  else  gets a  lap and then  move on. 

Rob D · · Queens, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 30
Daav Seeley wrote:

No personal offense intended to this poster, but..

F*CK GOLF

Climbing doesn’t need to borrow anything from...golf. Environmentally,  socioeconomicly , and culturally barren; it makes sense as Trumps avocation..

As in most situations in life courtesyand a smile along with situational awareness will serve all parties best.

You're arguing with a post that's half a decade old. 

june m · · elmore, vt · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 110

What  really sucks is when someone  drops a rope on you  when you ate leading. 

Russ Keane · · Salt Lake · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 392

Pierre Vaz..... With his first post on MP!   Way to defend top roping, pal! Inspiring!

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Russ Keane wrote: Pierre Vaz..... With his first post on MP!   Way to defend top roping, pal! Inspiring!

Feel superior putting down lowly toproping?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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