Self Rescue?

Just remember to always pack a good sharp knife.

and when the poo hits the blades, use it!

Just joking, In reality most folks just start crying for help.

While I agree that most don't practice in the field, I disagree that people climbing multi pitch light and fast won't have the requisite gear.

My rescue rack (that I always carry)is an ascension cord and a foot cord for prussik ascension, a knife, plus a few quick rings or quick shuts. Light and small, that's all you need. If you need to create a chest harness for the victim you can do it with your alpine runners or cut some rope. The cords can also be used for creating mechanical advantage pulley systems. Lots of power and utility in those two lengths of cord.

snowhazed wrote:While I agree that most don't practice in the field, I disagree that people climbing multi pitch light and fast won't have the requisite gear. My rescue rack (that I always carry)is an ascension cord and a foot cord for prussik ascension, a knife, plus a few quick rings or quick shuts. Light and small, that's all you need. If you need to create a chest harness for the victim you can do it with your alpine runners or cut some rope. The cords can also be used for creating mechanical advantage pulley systems. Lots of power and utility in those two lengths of cord.

Heres something to practice ... Try self rescue with nothing more than your "PAS" thr locker on it and your basic anchor setup

Assume you are at the top of a rope stretcher pitch where you used up everything on that pitch and in the anchors

And you dropped your "rescue biner"

The amount of gear you use and the frequency with which you practice thr skills have a correlation .... The more you practice it, the less gear youll need as youll find ways not to use items

Unfortunately most folks dont practice self rescue very much or under realistic conditions

;)

Good scenario. I never use a PAS, so in that situation I would be dangling from my last piece with almost all the rope out, and not other equipment- (mustve dropped the nuts too).

In this situation I would hope to rely on my partner as they are uninjured and have access to the placed gear above them. This highlights the need to make sure your partners know whatsup especially when tackling dangerous routes at or above your grade.

If my partner is incompetent, or knocked out, I'm not sure what the move would be.

Good scenario. I never use a PAS, so in that situation I would be dangling from my last piece with almost all the rope out, and not other equipment- (mustve dropped the nuts too).

In this situation I would hope to rely on my partner as they are uninjured and have access to the placed gear above them. This highlights the need to make sure your partners know whatsup especially when tackling dangerous routes at or above your grade.

If my partner is incompetent, or knocked out, I'm not sure what the move would be.