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Moore's Wall guidebook?

Original Post
Ryan Curry · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 425

Is there a comprehensive guide to Moore's Wall? If there is, where would you buy one? My girlfriend and I are flying into Greensboro on Thursday and are thinking of heading out that way. Thanks!

Ryan

Mike Belu · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 135

Selected climbs in North Carolina will give you enough info to get started there. Compared to other guidebooks, like the books for RRG, it's not that great.

Interestingly enough, there is a really good bouldering guidebook by Adam Sokolow, if you search for it.

There's supposed to be a new guidebook in the works that will have Moore's covered, from what I understand.

Also, finding the rap areas after you finish a climb can be an adventure, just a heads up.

Austin Goff · · Winston-Salem, NC · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 118

Honestly, MP is your best bet if you are only here for a few days. Actually it is more than enough if you are here for the long run. The best climbs are listed. If you need any extra beta shoot me a PM.

Austin

Ryan Curry · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 425

Sweet, thanks for the beta. I think I'll just print up some stuff off of this site and take it from there.

Ryan

saxfiend · · Decatur, GA · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 4,221

I'm kind of surprised that no one has chimed in to tell you the only authentic way to climb at Moore's is to go up there with no guide or beta at all; stumble around until you find a route you like; then after climbing it, stumble around until you can figure out a way to get down from it. :)

JL

Austin Goff · · Winston-Salem, NC · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 118

I'm not sure who the locals are the you speak of. I have been local here for 3 years. When i first moved here all the locals were really good giving great beta and proving to be great climbing partners. Maybe you didn't meet any locals when you visited? The list of classics on the Moore's Wall page will point you to the best routes to do. Watch your rope ends in the amphitheater (if you go there) if you only have a 60m.

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

I have 2 guide books for moore's wall and both of them sux. The topos are no good in them and I normally end up at the wrong spot and just climb some route between the real ones. To get you started go walk up and climb sentinel buttress so you will know where the rap chains are, from there just walk along the wall and find something and go for it.

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330
ABG wrote:I'm not sure who the locals are the you speak of. I have been local here for 3 years. When i first moved here all the locals were really good giving great beta and proving to be great climbing partners. Maybe you didn't meet any locals when you visited? The list of classics on the Moore's Wall page will point you to the best routes to do. Watch your rope ends in the amphitheater (if you go there) if you only have a 60m.
I agree. Having lived in Chapel Hill for ~7 years, I would not consider myself "local", and never had anything but positive interactions with regular Moore's Wall climbers (yes, this even includes Tim!). It's a fantastic climbing area and between the guidebook, MP, and other climbers at the area, you should have no problem finding your way up and back down climbs. With the resources available, if you can't find a route or can't safely find your way back down, maybe you should consider another sport. Adam's bouldering guide is very good and hopefully Erica Lineberry's Piedmont book will be done soon and provide a better/more comprehensive guide to Moore's routes.
Ryan Curry · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 425

I just got home after a really fun trip that included a day at Moore's Wall. It rained a lot, hence only one day, but it was a good day! After printing out a bunch of stuff off of here I ended up buying a copy of Selected Climbs of North Carolina, and it was worth having the topos if nothing else.

One thing I found strange about the book, as well as some of the beta off of Mountain Project, were the errors concerning the direction of rap anchors and/or route locations. It seems as if the authors had trouble distinguishing left from right, which after about the third occurrence was kinda funny. We found the combination of the book and Mountain Project to be the way to go.

Thanks for the input. We can't wait to go back!

norwegian blue · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 0

In case anyone is having trouble finding the Adam's Moore's Wall bouldering guide it is available through Lulu:

lulu.com/commerce/index.php…

Or go to Lulu.com and search for Bouldering Moore's Wall.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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