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How to Rack a Double Set of Stoppers?

Original Post
Greeley · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 15

I just got a second set of Black Diamond Stoppers, and I'm curious how other folks rack their doubles.

I see two options. Option 1: Rack the two sets together, spread across a few carabiners (e.g., one carabiner would have two #4s, two #5s, etc.). Option 2: Rack each set independently, so I would have two separate sets of Stoppers.

Here's my Who-Wants-to-Be-a-Millionaire (over)analysis:

Option 1 would allow me to easily find pieces and see what I have left. Option 2 seems like it would be less efficient on the rock -- I imagine a situation where I'm not able to immediately grab the correct 'biner with the gear I need because, for example, I can't remember which set has my remaining #6.

The biggest downside I see with Option 1 is if I only need to take a single set of Stoppers on a particular route, then I would need to re-rack my Stoppers into a single set. Option 2 would let me easily grab one or two sets of Stoppers, depending on what the route demanded, without having to re-rack anything.

Option 1 seems like the better way to go. I would prefer efficiency on the rock to inconvenience on the ground. Ultimately I know this comes down to personal preference, but I'm curious to see what other people's experience has been. Are there other options I haven't considered? Other pros or cons I haven't thought of?

Thanks!

rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847

I rack it as biner#1 small, biner#2 medium and biner#3 large.
At the intersection point just overlap a size or two.
I rarely/never say it a #6 placement. I decide if it's small, medium or large.

I'm constantly changing what I bring on the climb. It's useless to bring too many large nuts if the crack is sustained fingers.

teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

My doubles are hexes, but I don't suppose it matters.

I rack smaller pieces on one biner, and larger on another. Slightly more pieces on the smaller set, since they take up less space. So both sets mixed together.

I Iike having my stoppers on two biners, any way. It's harder to accidentally drop all of my stoppers, that way. I don't find it to be a problem, and I prefer like sizes together, rather than two sets separated out.

The only time it is inconvenient is when I need a piece right on the cusp of my size split, and I guess wrong on which set I need.

And honestly, I see very little reason not to just take all of my nuts on most routes: they weigh very little. But I'm not a minimalist, nor do I climb desperate stuff, so YMMV.

Greeley · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 15
Dylan B. wrote:Obviously, you need to buy a third rack of stoppers. Keep one rack on just one biner, and keep the other two distributed across several biners. That way, when you want to carry a single rack, you don't have to re-rack your doubles, and vice versa.
I almost put this as Option 3, but I didn't want to deprive someone of the opportunity to give me shit for posting such an inane question.
Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
Dylan B. wrote:Obviously, you need to buy a third rack of stoppers. Keep one rack on just one biner, and keep the other two distributed across several biners. That way, when you want to carry a single rack, you don't have to re-rack your doubles, and vice versa.
Totally this.

Honestly my second set of stoppers is a set of tri-cams, but I wouldn't carry 2 sets of actually stoppers. I don't know anyone that does really. Henry Barber maybe? **EDIT** Aid climbers perhaps?

Sell them and buy two cams.
Wiled Horse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669

my second set of stoppers are called offset cams

Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118

Arapiles is the only place I've ever climbed where taking 2 full sets of stoppers on normal routes is warranted.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

Just as a note..I have two sets of stoppers, but the second set sits in my bin of extra gear. I only carry one on a wall.

Kevin Neville · · Oconomowoc, WI · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 15

Rack by size. Small Stoppers, Peenuts and brass offsets on one biner. Medium and large Stoppers on another. Sometimes I carry a third with the largest few Stoppers and two or three tricams. I haven't used offsets larger than the Peenuts, but if I were to carry two full sets, the second would definitely be offsets.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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