Climbing with kids

I'm curious to hear from those of you who have kids and have taught them how to climb. I've got 3 kids (9,7, and 5) who enjoy climbing. The 9 year old is always anxious to go and has been gaining a lot of confidence in his climbing abilities. It's been a lot of fun. So far, I've just been TR-ing him. He's constantly begging for me to let him belay and lead and he is convinced he's ready. I'm very hesitant to say yes to either request at this point based on his age and experience. So my question to those that have had experience with kids is this: what is the age/experience level at which you taught your kids to belay and lead? Also, are there any techniques you've used with them to teach them in a safer and more controlled environment?

I appreciate any input.

My daughters are 9 and 12. The 9 year old loves climbing, the 12 is hot and cold, will climb regularly for a few weeks then lose interest completely for a while.

I would let the 12 year old belay me, but not the 9 year old (the point is moot because we climb in a gym, and the gym won't let you belay until you are 13). The younger just can't be depended on to stay focussed at any task for more than 5 or so minutes - she may start doing a dance, telling jokes, looking around the room, basically nothing awful but stuff you don't want to see in a belayer. The 12 year old, when she knows something is important, she can keep her attention on it.

Anyway, that's what I'd look for in a kid before letting them belay - can they stay on task. If you can do that, you can belay, the rest easy.

I'm too young to have kids, but I've climbed with kids younger than 9 who were competent leaders. As someone who teaches a lot of new people how to climb, I would highly recommend a lot of repeated instruction until you really feel confident in their ability.

Set up a short, easy top rope over a sport route, leave the draws and have them climb on top rope. With the extra tail on the ground, tie in and have them practice clipping the draws as if they were leading. Do it over and over. I would also demonstrate the concept of back-clipping and its consequences. Eventually you'll feel okay about letting them lead.

My kids are 10 and 8. Started climbing 4 years ago with top roping. I'd give them set of nuts and play game of "find a good placement" while I hike around to set up anchor. After climbing, we look at their placements and talk about it. We still play this game but now they're building anchors. They've followed and cleaned but only when I'm climbing with other adults. We're planning our first 2 pitch climb soon, again with another adult. I'm in no rush to teaching them to lead, there's just too much to learn before taking that step and honestly, that conversation has never came up. It's going to be a while before I go alone with my daughter. I've seen dads get into trouble quick and kids didn't have enough experience to help out. I want my kids to be a solid follower before teaching them to lead. But every kids different. Some kids can sail around the world alone. I'll be amazed if my kids can find their way back from school without getting lost.

Jjensen wrote:Also, are there any techniques you've used with them to teach them in a safer and more controlled environment? I appreciate any input.

I think the main points are to let them have fun and be safe. Dont let you or them be in a big hurry to get ahead of themselves. My kids have just as much fun swinging from a rope or chasing the blue tailed skinks at the base of the crag as they do climbing, so let them do that. At the same time let them learn things. Teach them to tie in. Teach them various knots. Teach them to do safety checks. Ask them their opinion on a route and stimulate problem solving.

I let me 11 year old "belay me" with a GriGri by tying him down to a ground anchor with a sling and then I climb up about 8' to take some falls, just so he gets the fun of the experience. It will be a few years before I would let him accept responsibility for someone's life, but this way he gets to practice and his curiosity is fed. The point for me is that yes he can technically handle the operation of a belay, but if something goes wrong is he going to have the maturity and problem solving skills to handle it? If he dropped someone would he (or anybody else involved) be able to emotionally handle that failure of responsibility? I cannot see putting that kind of emotional stress on a kid. Just because they can, doesn't mean they should.

My general philosophy is to be patient, dont expect to get a ton of climbing done, dont expect them to care about goals or technique until they get much older (teens) and/or really develop a strong interest in improving, just enjoy the time together and have fun. If its fun they will want to go again and again, but if its high pressure, a million rules, or scary... they'll probably never go with you again.

I agree that fun is key. Thanks for all the great advice and suggestions. Also love the video of the 4 year old!

That's a great suggestion. Never occurred to me that perhaps he might be more comfortable on an easy trad route where he could place as much as he wanted.