Vedauwoo
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hey so I'm going to be in the Voo next weekend and it will be my first time. I was wondering what some good moderate under 5.10 would be to climb. i have doubles to 4 and one bigbro size 2 (purple). i was also wondering some good suggestions for some OW boulder problems under v3/v4. cheers |
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Without at least one #5 I wouldn't be able to climb well over half the best moderates at Vedauwoo, but YMMV. Two #5s and a #6 go further here than anywhere else, if you can scrounge them up. Also, a quick 'Advanced' search on MP will yield a good collection of routes in your grade with high ratings from other climbers. Otherwise, and lacking a #5 you might consider: |
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Try cupcake as well. V1 |
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spin to win it the nats 3star area is one of the best intro to invert boulder problems. |
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^^^^^ Danny is the OW master |
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Climb and Punishment at Reynolds (5.9+) should go great on that rack! Definitely tape up for that one. You can then TR penis dimension (10c) from the same anchor |
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"Fallout" if your on the coke bottle wall was great. Do the direct start. I don't think you need anything bigger than a 4. While your in the area climb "Dollywood" its super exposed and fun sport route. |
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Ted's Trot on the Nautilus is a good one. Doesn't need anything bigger than #4.
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P1 of Captain Nemo is 5.8 and you'll need nothing larger than a #3 Camalot. The Lower Slots on the Nautilus are good introductory 5.7/5.8 and require at least 1 #5 Camalot. Mother #1 is a great 5.7 and although you could use a #6 I got by without one pretty easily. These are all on the Nautilus. |
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Hatbox Chimney on Hasler's Hatbox - think it's a 7 or 8 or something, is a fine route . . . also over on Valley Massive, you will find quite a few - Bill Steel, etc. Over at Blair, there are some good hand cracks. |
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It's worth noting that many first-time visitors to the Voo find the OW climbs to be pretty tough so I usually recommend starting on something easier than you think is appropriate (Edward's Crack is great) and then go from there (Cupcake is another good option if you cruise Edward's as you will quickly find out if Voo 5.10+ is enjoyable for you). |
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I can recommend Rat's Brain area (listed on Poland Hill here on MP). Shortish approach, short climbs and not offwidth for the most part. Good intro to the area and excellent views - you can whip out the book to SEE where you're going next. |
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thanks for all the info guys its truly helping out. i think I'm going to purchase a few cams on my way up there (#5 n #6). i just have another question since i have a number 2 bb that crosses into the #5 range is that efficient enough with using a #5 that i can slide up with me as i climb and have the BB stationary to protect a run out ext? |
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Two things. |
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nicelegs wrote:Two things. First, a big bro is rarely useful at Vedauwoo. The flared nature makes it difficult to place and I'd rather not spend my time trying to find bumps that line up into something parallel. The time to use it is at the edge of a lip so the crack doesn't swallow the rope. Second, and I only say this as someone who learned to climb at vedauwoo and has done hundreds of routes at most grades out there, you absolutely do not need a 5 or 6 unless you are specifically searching out wide climbs. The 4 will get placed even on hand cracks but the 5 and 6 can totally be avoided unless you want to get on routes that require them. I do however believe that your leg is adequate to put into the crack if you don't have the gear for it. Head over to the Nautilus one day and Reynolds hill the next. Climb whatever is in your grade in those areas. If you look up and it's too wide, trust your eyes.This ^^^ Vedauwoo is unique because of the wide cracks, but classic because every other variety of cracks are represented in a worthy way. |
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My standard rack at vedauwoo was doubles to fists, but rarely packed even one #5 unless the wide was on the menu. You'll be just fine leaving the big bro in the car, provided you pick the right lines. |
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all great suggestions. i think a day at poland, nautilus, or reynolds would have you set. |
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VerticalUrge wrote:all great suggestions. i think a day at poland, nautilus, or reynolds would have you set. if you want an easy access, quick, road-side thrashing of the OW bouldering variety, I would suggest some fisticuffs with the temperamental temptress Alice, clocking in at an ego shattering V1Although getting down might be a bit exciting now that the tree is gone. |
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Brian Scoggins wrote: Although getting down might be a bit exciting now that the tree is gone.you can always step down onto the large pile of bones that has collected at the base of the down climb due to the absence of the tree. Or you could just nonchalantly down climb the uninvolved 4th class crack on the back of the boulder |