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Med Dose Madness
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 2 from 107
votes
Routes in Center Section
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Beginner's Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Bolt Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bonehead Roof S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cold Turkey S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hippos on Parade S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hold Me aka The Move S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Lies and Propaganda S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Med Dose Madness S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Misdemeanor S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mom's Pancake S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Rhino Bucket S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tunnel Zone T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,693 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Aug 4, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
I've been wondering about this route but hadn't gotten around to it yet. Just did it today and though it was a bit wet it was sharp enough to keep me on. Overall i thought it was a nice addition but i did feel that it was a bit sketchy going to the chains. It looked like if you blew one of the last moves you could hit the ledge below (like on Bonehead to the left). Thats why I put PG13, post your opinions if you disagree.
Climb the mossy slab start as for beginners/ Bonehead Roof. Head straight up the face on sharp holds following stainless steel eyebolts. The crux happens low and is painful on the fingers but there are lots of foot options to make the holds work. At about the 4th bolt the climbing eases up and you will soon be on a large ledge. Head up and right through a notch clipping your last bolt and step awkwardly to the right to another nice ledge. I would have liked another bolt here. Make a couple moves to the quick clips and say hurray!
Climb the mossy slab start as for beginners/ Bonehead Roof. Head straight up the face on sharp holds following stainless steel eyebolts. The crux happens low and is painful on the fingers but there are lots of foot options to make the holds work. At about the 4th bolt the climbing eases up and you will soon be on a large ledge. Head up and right through a notch clipping your last bolt and step awkwardly to the right to another nice ledge. I would have liked another bolt here. Make a couple moves to the quick clips and say hurray!
13 Comments