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Knuckle or pulley aches when I wake up

Original Post
K R · · CA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 50

Anyone experienced an issue where you can crimp hard pain free when climbing and generally feel no pain while climbing, but sometimes you wake up with stiff/aching knuckle or pulley? It's the middle knuckle on my middle finger. It doesn't hurt climbing and is usually not something I feel during the day. Should I keep climbing or take time off or climb less hard?

Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,945

The obvious answer is the correct one...

Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 3,130

I wouldn't necessarily say you should stop climbing but maybe you could consider prophylactic measures to mitigate any potential risk of injury. I would stray away from ibuprofen and look at ice/hot baths and taping while you climb to give your pulleys some extra support. Also, do a prolonged finger/hand/arms warm up to ensure decent bloodflow to the area.

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

I hurt in the AM,,but I'm old! Easy warm up hand exercises usually do me fine and nothing bothers them through the day , unless I'm back to climbing and crimping once again...I have to tape up all knuckles, across the pullys now, to assure a day of climbs without a 'Pop or tear. Full hand, slopers, buckets etc. and I'm ok. But steep and crimp climbs need me taped up forever now ,,,since maybe age 53 or so.

1Eric Rhicard · · Tucson · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 10,101

If it isn't intense pain I would keep climbing. I would also change up the type of climbing. If you are doing a lot of hard crimping back off that and do more large hold endurance stuff. Warming up is always a good idea too. If you are doing a lot of bouldering on thin stuff try doing more routes. Tough to do in MPLS.

D.Sweet · · Damascus, MD · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 20

I have moderate pain the in the same knuckle on my left hand after harder climbing days. Rest will of course make it feel better, but as soon as you go back to climbing hard it will flare up again. Or at least that has been my experience.

Training crimp strength during my hangboard sessions has also shown some improvement. Getting stronger on the specific grip position might just be the key to less inflammation?

Mathias · · Loveland, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 306

My hands hurt all the time. It's a dull ache and not acute pain though. The only time they don't hurt is when I'm super focused on something (which really means I just don't notice), or after 4 or more days off from climbing. It is what it is. If I notice anything unusual, I take it easy or stop for a few days. My philosophy is simple: listen to your body and do what feels right.

Bottom line is, if you climb hard (regardless of the grade you're at) you're probably going to have some aches and pains. I've found it's true for most highly physical activities.

Rob DeBruyn · · Burlington, VT · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 55

If I have a couple of particularly hard days of climbing, I will get the same thing. No pain while climbing, but my finger joints are stiff in the morning or if I wake up in the middle of the night. For me it doesn't feel like tendon problems (I've had that too, so I think I can notice a difference), it just feels like an inflammation within the joints. I usually just stretch them out slowly, and the full range of motion comes back in a minute. This has been the case for me for a couple of years, and it's never caused me any real problems.

Khat King · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0

Had trouble with a rotator cuff awhile back, took the ice/stretch route but didn't feel like it returned to normal. Heard this guy on enormocast: theclimbingdoctor.com. He has a good bit to say on injury prevention and warm-up, plus you can download a free sample of his book to see what exactly he has to say.

Keith Beckley · · Santa Fe, NM · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 0

How old are you? If your older than forty welcome to your forties. Warm up slowly. Especially when doing hard, bouldery stuff. Expect a while till your warmed up and have full power I've found at 44. Feeling great after this protocol.

K R · · CA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 50

I'm only 26.

K R · · CA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 50

After paying attention to it, I'm pretty sure it's not the knuckle but it's the A2 near the knuckle. This means I must have aggravated my old A2 injury by crimping too hard. It still doesn't hurt to crimp so I don't think it's serious. I climbed twice since asking and so far it's continuing to get less irritated in the morning. I do lots of finger exercises and I'm taking it pretty easy in the gym.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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