Replacing bad bolts at Broughton's Bluff and French's Dome
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Hey Portland and Mt Hood climbers, |
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Hey Micah, I'd be happy to help out. I have a Petzl hammer and hand drill, for whatever help that may be. And of course, some impeccable belay skills. |
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Awesome Micah! I'd love to help out as well! |
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Hopefully you are using ss glue ins. |
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I'd be glad to help replace bolts and/or belay. Unfortunately, I can't remember any specific routes with bad bolts/hangers. |
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The 5.6 route up the back of French's Dome had some hilariously ancient bolts, at least as of 7 years ago when I last did it. I think it would be nice to leave a couple of them in as historical relics. |
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The route to the right of Gandalfs grip, which I believe is a 5.12 sport route had sketchy hangars on it. Also, there are old pound in bolts on gg as well as loose block overhang that could probably be pulled and patched, if you're into that. I know I saw more old bolts and hangars last time I was at broughton, but I can't remember specifics. |
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I'm not sure of any real death-traps, but a few of these routes may have bolts or hangers that are kind of wonky: |
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Thanks for the notes. I do plan to leave a few ancient bolts as pieces of history, such as the two bolts on Yellow Brick Road. :) |
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Was playing around Tips City / Loose Block / Sandy's Direct area the other day, and my personal opinion is that nearly every bolt could be replaced, especially Least Resistance and Sandy's. Definitely some budget stuff up there - although Slapfest did have one (newer) Metolius 5-piece. |
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Hey, |