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Replacing bad bolts at Broughton's Bluff and French's Dome

Original Post
Micah Klesick · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 3,971

Hey Portland and Mt Hood climbers,
I am spearheading a project to replace all 1/4" bolts, rusted 3/8" bolts, any bolt with a homemade hanger, and any rusted anchors at French's Dome and Broughton's Bluff. Funding has been provided for the bolts. So now what I need is people interested in helping with replacing bolts and belaying, etc. Also, I need to know what bolts need to be replaced at French's Dome and Broughton's Bluff. If you can recall a route at one of those crags with bad bolts, please post below or message me, and I'll check it out. I'm aiming to get a list going in the next week, so time is limited. Please message me if you are interested in helping out. The goal to have all the new bolts in before winter.

Nate Ball · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 11,224

Hey Micah, I'd be happy to help out. I have a Petzl hammer and hand drill, for whatever help that may be. And of course, some impeccable belay skills.

Nick Pappas · · Portland, OR · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 70

Awesome Micah! I'd love to help out as well!

Tug · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 0

Hopefully you are using ss glue ins.

SamHorack · · Portland, OR · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 0

I'd be glad to help replace bolts and/or belay. Unfortunately, I can't remember any specific routes with bad bolts/hangers.

Nkane 1 · · East Bay, CA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 140

The 5.6 route up the back of French's Dome had some hilariously ancient bolts, at least as of 7 years ago when I last did it. I think it would be nice to leave a couple of them in as historical relics.

Dylan Pike · · Knoxville, TN · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 488

The route to the right of Gandalfs grip, which I believe is a 5.12 sport route had sketchy hangars on it. Also, there are old pound in bolts on gg as well as loose block overhang that could probably be pulled and patched, if you're into that. I know I saw more old bolts and hangars last time I was at broughton, but I can't remember specifics.

hemp22 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 50

I'm not sure of any real death-traps, but a few of these routes may have bolts or hangers that are kind of wonky:
shoot from the hip (1st bolt)
risky business (near where it joins the top of gandalf's P2)
physical graffiti (first/approach pitch that traverses in from the left)
least resistance (upper slapfest)
If you're really motivated, it may be worth looking at a few of the neglected routes that would maybe get a little more traffic if they had shiny bolts:
bloodsucker
vampyr
well hung (?? maybe no bolts on that one)

Micah Klesick · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 3,971

Thanks for the notes. I do plan to leave a few ancient bolts as pieces of history, such as the two bolts on Yellow Brick Road. :)
Cinderella (12b) is definitely on my list to check the bolts. I'll be taking a look at GG as well.

Nate Ball · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 11,224

Was playing around Tips City / Loose Block / Sandy's Direct area the other day, and my personal opinion is that nearly every bolt could be replaced, especially Least Resistance and Sandy's. Definitely some budget stuff up there - although Slapfest did have one (newer) Metolius 5-piece.

Micah Klesick · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 3,971

Hey,
So I created a FB page to document the on-going effort to replace bolts in the Portland area. Please request to join the page if you are interested in keeping up with the project or helping out.
facebook.com/groups/6131013…

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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