Classic NC routes...
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First time climbing in NC after 18 years exploring Western U.S. rock. Would appreciate advice on classic multi-pitch routes in the .8 to mid .10 range. Plan on climbing in mid October for a week. Thanks for sharing your experience... |
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if it is still in print |
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These are some of my favorite multi pitch climbs I've done so far: |
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I second dopey duck!!!!! |
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I've been seasonally guiding rock in Western NC for the past 4 years. Do not miss out on the Linville Gorge Wilderness. When you drop off the rim into the amphitheater you might wonder why an approach trail appears to be so neglected, but once you start up your lines the world falls away below and you'll feel really out there |
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I second others'suggestions for: |
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Here is a good thread that I started when I was moving back to NC after living in Colorado for 4 years. Great suggestions in there. |
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North Carolina is a big place and there is a lot of rock. You will need to narrow down what region you are looking to visit to save a lot of windshield time. Good multipitch classics from Moores Wall to Whitesides with a whole lot in between at places like Stone and Rumbling Bald and Linville Gorge. My suggestion would be to start with Linville Gorge. Hit up some classics like White Lightning and Second Stanza at Table Rock, then go down to the Amipitheatre or NC Wall for the Mummy, Daddy and Bumblebee. Short trip down to Hawksbill for Lost in Space and Star Trekkin from there. Once you have it dialed in head down to Shortoff for some of the best multi in the state on routes like Dopey Duck, Manginot, Straight & Narrow, and Built to Tilt. Then if you have some more time decide if you want to head to to the high country toward Ship for classics like Boardwalk, Hindu Kush, Airlie Gardens, Linn Cove Lullaby, etc, or down toward Brevard for classics at Looking Glass like the Nose, Dinkus Dog, Rats Ass, and many others. October is the perfect month for any of those places. Have fun. |
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Thanks for all the great route choices and itineraries. Sounds like a very special climbing destination. Looking forward to sampling your local stone. Cheers! |
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Zoo View (moore's 5.7 but most say the start is harder) |
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Thanks...! No one has mentioned Fathom (.10-) at Laurel Knob...should it be on the list with Groover and Seconds? |
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Todd Reeves wrote:Thanks...! No one has mentioned Fathom (.10-) at Laurel Knob...should it be on the list with Groover and Seconds?Fathom is also classic. I think Groover and Seconds are probably better first timer routes. Make sure you are climbing a partner who you're dialed in with; I remember many belays where I could hardly hear my belayer; most pitches seemed like they were a full rope length. Once you leave the huge arching corner get ready for some true NC runout slab! NC is full of long classic multi-pitch routes and stellar single pitch galore. With only a week, you can't hardly scratch the surface. If I were you I'd concentrate my efforts towards Looking Glass, plus your not too far from Laurel at that point. |
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Here are bunch that are in the MP database. I searched 5.8-5.10d, more than 4 pitches and 3 or more stars. It seems like most are centered around Looking Glass, Laurel Knob and Linville Gorge. Plenty of options in those places. I narrowed it done to ones that I am familiar with and would recommend. If you increase the search to 5.11- you come up with even more options. Plus there are a bunch that are shorter than 4 pitches. |
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Todd, I'd love to hear where you went and what you thought after your trip. |