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unobtrusive place to climb with a group

Original Post
tenesmus · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2004 · Points: 3,023

A neighborhood friend twisted my arm and asked for help with taking a group (8-10) climbing in the evening in SLC. **ugh**

Looking for recommendations for a 'less-obtrusive-with-a-clustered-up-group' area with 3-4 easy routes in the .6-9 range that are out of the way from most people.

I have no idea where Dogwood is and won't be going there.
I've never been to the Slips and don't want to blow it on this.
Not Red Rocks (or whatever that thing in Draper is called), Pete's Rock or Challenge.

Seems like Reservoir Ridge has those 2 routes but they're too easy and will probably have folks there?

Anything in LCC that fits this? Ferguson?

Would Penitentiary Wall work? Geezer wall? (Wondering about rockfall as we won't have that many helmets?)

  • *ugh**
NickO · · West Slope · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 30

Definitely will avoid other folks at the Geezer Wall. Pretty easy climbing but fun.

Austin Baird · · SLC, Utah · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 95

Does it need to be SLC? Serenity Wall in AF might not be a bad idea. (Bring helmets for everyone). And let me know if you need some help. I'm in DC until Tuesday night but could help out after I get back. My fee will be SLC's best chili verde.

zoso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 790

Tanners. Duh.

Austin Baird · · SLC, Utah · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 95

I bet Zoso would love to belay for you. All night.

Ty Gregory · · Salt Lake City · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 115

Nobody ever goes to mule hollow and it has loads of easy climbing. Its a hike though.

zoso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 790

Possibly this?
mountainproject.com/v/hellg…

6, 8-, 9-, 10a.
Instant approach.

The only downside, imo, is the group will be a bit hard pressed to find a good area to hang as the base has little area and it is somewhat of a bush wack to get up there. But again, it's right next to the road. The routes were quite clean when I did them but I'd still recommend helmets.

Rubber Tramp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 5

Mule Hollow has several easy routes, but I'd assume you're wanting single pitch with anchors, which would vote Mule Hollow out. I would shy away from Serenity in AF maybe if #1) you can't provide helmets for all and 2) if you want a cushy belay area. Serenity has mostly good belaying, but the climbs on the right end of the Eavesdown wall have a very narrow, lose belay by the talus. If anyone tries passing by it can get hairy. Based on your preferences for areas (no challenge, no slips, no dogwood), I'd vote Geezer or Res Ridge, but you're pretty much climbing .6's there, if that be an issue. I think the Geezer is less popular/known and will be less populated. Plus a bit of a hike in (10-15 min?) and not so pristine belaying helps knock down the crowds I figure.

Ben Ricketts · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 41

Why not the slips? Seems like the perfect crag for this. Embrace your inner noob and take over the crag. Bring a 70m. One of the better easy routes is too long for a 60m.

The climbing at the slips is surprisingly fun and engaging with good rock.

Ken H · · Granite, UT · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 3,926

Tenesmus this deserves so many jives for your many posts but I don't have the energy on a Monday morning.

I'd recommend you reconsider Red Rock. Really perfect place for beginner group. Lots of easy lines there with positive holds and easy to setup and clean.

If no, I think the last time I took beginners out not to Red Rock I think it was to Beach Ballcrag.

mountainproject.com/v/beach…

I don't recall routes exactly but there is a little dirt area next to the river the group can hangout and there are some bolt anchors to easy setup.

Start here I think and find more bolt anchors.
mountainproject.com/v/water…

No climber in there right mind would come here to climb these routes, especially when you can easily see your gumbie party in full swing from the road.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711

McKinley. Nice flat base. Short. Easy to manage. Not that popular.

Mike Marmar · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 67

If you're looking for a short approach, easy climbing, and somewhere where nobody will care that you have a large group, The Slips and Dogwood are both perfect. Dogwood is a 3 minute walk from the road just up-canyon from the dogwood camping area in BCC.

Why have you eliminated those two options??

tenesmus · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2004 · Points: 3,023

I'm not exactly sure how to find them.

Mike Marmar · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 67

Dogwood: Park across the street from the dogwood camping area, walk into the camping area, take a left and hike parallel to the road for 2 minutes

The slips: If the water is low, park in the pullout on the north side of the canyon before the storm mtn picnic area, hike north across the gully to the base of the wall. If the water is high (maybe with all this rain), park across the street from the storm mtn picnic area, and follow the directions on the MP page to hike over storm mtn island.

zoso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 790

Hook, line, and sinker.

GRK · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 6,205

nothing but net.

Jjensen · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 25

It's been awhile since I've been there, but Parley's canyon may be another option. Not sure how popular it is these days. Easy to set up TR and a pretty nice little area to hang out at the base.

Mike Marmar · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 67
zoso wrote:Hook, line, and sinker.
Ha! I consider myself to be pretty adept at spotting trolls....now I'm not so sure about this one...
darrell hodges · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 380

Serenity Wall has the best 5.9s in AF. Usually not crowded because not everyone knows about it.

Daniel Winder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 101

Bongeater buttress. After everyone has warmed up on the namesake, run some laps on prowser for fitness.

tenesmus · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2004 · Points: 3,023

I've been spending WAY too much time in Tanners. But don't go up there. You'd hate it.

Dogwood is on the north side, right?

I've never been to Parley's either. Are the .8's and .9's straight-forward or would they be super frustrating for 13-15 year-old newbies with relatively decent athleticism?

I really do never go to these places, any specific directions I need to look for for Parley's?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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