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Routes in East Ironing Board
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Crackin' Up T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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East Ironing Board Traverse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X |
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Green Room S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Hammer of Thor S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Hand Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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Hey Slick T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Honemaster Lambada S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Hunka Hunka Burnin' Love S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hyperpolysyllabic T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lichen Linguistics T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Que Rasca T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Raven, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Seam T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sinatra's World S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Slave to the Rhythm S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Smooth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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South Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Sunbreeze T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tommy Gun T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Velvet Elvis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Pat Ament and Gordy Ryan |
| Page Views: | 3,910 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Warren Teissier on Oct 4, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Access Issue: Raptor nesting lifted July 26, 2023
Details
Per Ryan Kuehn, Stewardship Director, Boulder Climbing Community: the seasonal raptor closure on the Third Flatiron will be extended beyond July 31st, 2023. The reopening date is TBD. This has been lifted as of 7/26/23 from the OSMP website per Zachary Henry.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
Description
This (together with Que Rasca) is one of my favorite routes in the Flatirons.
It follows two shallow, thin cracks up the center of the East face until they disappear. From there it continues up until it joins Que Rasca before reaching the arete.
The route is very runout, and even in the sections where gear is available, it can be tricky to place due to the shallow nature of the crack. This is not a climb for a budding 5.7 leader....
Start on the East face some 10-20 yards North of a large boulder that almost leans against the face (the route can be seen and approached easily from the saddle West of the Third Flatiron, at the rappel landing).
P1. climb up the blank slab until you reach the first incipient crack, follow it to its end and switch right to the next thin, incipient crack. Easiest climbing follows the right side of the crack. Protection is not available in the first 50 feet. After that, the crack allows gear in every 30 feet or so. Use these opportunities wisely. After the second crack dies, climb up some 15-20 feet to a camouflaged new bolt. From there, a short traverse right and up and back left for some 25 feet puts you at the two camouflaged belay bolts. This pitch is about 60 meters.
P2. Climb around, left or right, the large bulge just above the belay and head to the top of the bulge. Continue to climb directly above the belay for some 30 feet until you reach another brown bolt. This is the juncture with Que Rasca. Clip the bolt and climb up and left (crux) on delicate flakes, friction, and nubbins until you reach the arete. Belay at two bolts (Velvet Elvis belay).
P3. From here, an easy but exposed class 4 50m scramble takes you to a weakness on the ridge. Across the notch you will find two rap bolts.
Rap West down some 20 meters.
It follows two shallow, thin cracks up the center of the East face until they disappear. From there it continues up until it joins Que Rasca before reaching the arete.
The route is very runout, and even in the sections where gear is available, it can be tricky to place due to the shallow nature of the crack. This is not a climb for a budding 5.7 leader....
Start on the East face some 10-20 yards North of a large boulder that almost leans against the face (the route can be seen and approached easily from the saddle West of the Third Flatiron, at the rappel landing).
P1. climb up the blank slab until you reach the first incipient crack, follow it to its end and switch right to the next thin, incipient crack. Easiest climbing follows the right side of the crack. Protection is not available in the first 50 feet. After that, the crack allows gear in every 30 feet or so. Use these opportunities wisely. After the second crack dies, climb up some 15-20 feet to a camouflaged new bolt. From there, a short traverse right and up and back left for some 25 feet puts you at the two camouflaged belay bolts. This pitch is about 60 meters.
P2. Climb around, left or right, the large bulge just above the belay and head to the top of the bulge. Continue to climb directly above the belay for some 30 feet until you reach another brown bolt. This is the juncture with Que Rasca. Clip the bolt and climb up and left (crux) on delicate flakes, friction, and nubbins until you reach the arete. Belay at two bolts (Velvet Elvis belay).
P3. From here, an easy but exposed class 4 50m scramble takes you to a weakness on the ridge. Across the notch you will find two rap bolts.
Rap West down some 20 meters.
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