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Goal: Levitation 29

Original Post
Christina Frain · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 25

I am a trad climber looking to up my skills so I can do Levitation 29 in April 2015.
mountainproject.com/v/levit…
I live in Boulder, climb at the BRC, and try to climb outside at least once a week. My personal MP page shows most of my outdoor ticks.

If you are interested in working together to hone climbing skills, support each other in cross training, and preparing for a stunning multipitch, please message me.

Christina

Jordan Moore · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 60

I'm away from the front range traveling. Just wanted to drop in and say enjoy :) Levitation is a fantastic route. The top pitches are SANDY. Most people rap before the get to the slippery sand stuff.

Todd R · · Vansion, CO / WY · Joined May 2014 · Points: 40

PM'd

Lukas S · · Longmont, CO · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 0

Eldo is probably some of the best practice you could get for Levitation, though most of the cruxes on it are either bolted or with great gear, and the trad climbing is usually on pretty moderate terrain. Eldo's mix of face/crack is pretty on par, though kind of different climbing and rock. Absolutely take the first approach option listed in the guide book,running up low 5th/4th class, it will save you almost an entire hour on the approach and a lot of much needed energy.

I'm definitely still looking for partners around here, and will get a BRC membership again next month. Let me know if you want to get out.

Good luck!

Kevin Piarulli · · Redmond, OR · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 1,678

Obviously it is an amazing route, get on it! Best idea to spend a few days in Red Rock before hand climbing some 5.11 sport routes, which will mostly get you familiar with the style of thin face climbing found at the cruxes (besides the .11b roof down low). Please, if you do this route, climb the last two sandy/slabby 5.9 pitches to finish and do the walk off. Super easy compared to rapping and a very beautiful hike in itself!

r m · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 25

The rap is straightforward and saves a lot of time. There isn't many hazards for your rope getting stuck like a lot of rr routes as lev 29 is super vertical and thin climbing. After the last 11a pitch start the rappel because the last two pitches are crap. Another thing to consider is people below you. While rapping with parties below sucks a little, it's way better then dropping rocks on them from climbing the last two.

Brendan N · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 405

After both rapping and walking off I would highly recommend doing the last two pitches and walking off. While the last two pitches won't win any awards, the walkoff is a beautiful hike down through swirling technicolor sandstone runnels.

Christina Frain · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 25

I really appreciate the feedback and beta. I'm thrilled to have Eldo in my "backyard" as a training ground. Taking the time to to tackle some sport 11s in RRs before the big push could certainly be worthwhile. I've climbed in RRs quite a bit but I haven't done any routes there in the 11 range.

Gold Plated Rocket Pony · · Colorado · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 96

I'd make sure you take time on the approach once you hit the slabs. First time out on L29 we got a little lost on the slabs and it gets sketchy quick on such a huge slab/ledge. My big lesson was to make sure we saw the next cairn before going forward, if you don't see it then stop until you find it. Second time was cake taking our time.

S. Neoh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 35

My partner and I got on this climb in April, 1998. Three takeaway lessons we can share - 1) make sure you get Beta for the most efficient approach to the base of this climb. We were told after the fact it should take only about 2 hours and change. It took us almost four! 2) make sure you protect yourself against the Sun. The climb is in the Sun all afternoon in April. I had very sunburned shoulders at the end of the day. 3) Get an early start on the approach (or camp nearby the night before). We barely beat another party to the climb. If you do get beat, consider doing Eagle Dance (next to L29) instead. We heard it is a hoot from the party we beat to L29.

Do not underestimate P1. It is petty polished and quite technical (much more so than we expected). P2 is fun. The roof crux on P2 is no big deal if you are used to steeps. P3 (the easiest) requires a bit of trad gear so be ready. I thought it was also quite friable; I broke a few footholds if I recall correctly. P5 is pretty stiff at .11c. Bring endurance, along with some crack and stemming skills. We rapped from the top of P5, exhausted and dehydrated. It was a good thing we had stashed a gal jug of water below the approach slabs on the way up. You could consider doing the same.

We trailed a second 60m, 9.9mm rope. Too heavy! Consider using light doubles or a thin rap line instead. Rapping from top of P5 is easy, obvious, and quite fun (a long section of free rappel).

Above all, have fun! Submit a TR after your adventure!!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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