Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: Dibona and Girardi 1911
Page Views: 1,432 total · 9/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Nov 2, 2010
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Pitch 1: Start off by climbing up the southwest corner (kind of the crux with steep, semi awkward holds), traversing right up towards the shallow roofy horizontal break. Pass the shallow roof on its right side, at approximately the middle of the south face. 5.6

There is an option to belay at or just above this horizontal break, but, this pitch can also be extended for another 20m.

P1 (cont) or P2: Climb up the south face and trend slightly left, aiming for a belay platform cut out on the southwest shoulder on the left side of the face. 5.4

P2 (or P3): Climb up, slightly right, on steep but juggy weaknesses, then trend back slighly left to the summit and belay anchor. 5.5

A fun route, fairly easy climbing, and somewhat protected from the wind. Probably shady in the afternoon with some morning sun.

Location Suggest change

The route is located on the south face of Torre Quarta Bassa.

Hike around on either side of the Torre Grande formation, ending up on the north side. Hiking north past Torre Romana/Torre Barancio/Torre Lusy (these towers to the right), drop down and head on the trail leading to the leaning east side of Torre Quarta Alta and the south side of Torre Quarta Bassa.

The route starts on the left side of the south face, nearest Torre Quarta Alta's east side. Drop around to the slotty west side corridor (between the two towers) and look for an easy line to access the traverse across the wide south face.

Descent: there may be a couple of ways to descend this tower. To the northwest, there should be a couple of rappel anchors, first being 25 meters down. A fun rappel line is also rappelling into the notch between the two towers (to the west) to a rappel anchor (30m?) then rappel through a hole/chimney to the dark ground in the slot between the two towers.

Protection Suggest change

The route is mostly fixed but a smattering of nuts and small to medium cams may be prudent.

A few slings and draws.

Fixed anchor locations at the end of the pitches.

Photos

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