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Best trad climbing for beginners?

Original Post
Laurita · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0

Just moved here from TX about a month ago and would like to know where the best trad climbing is for beginners. Thanks!

Mike Pharris · · Longmont, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 125

you might cross post this in the "partners" forum for max exposure. I'm sure you'll find a good partner. have fun!

Laurita · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0

Thank you, Mike!

mark felber · · Wheat Ridge, CO · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 41

The route finder function on this website is another good way to find climbs at any level. Plug in the area you want to climb in, the level of difficulty you're looking for, the length of climb you want to try, and maybe the number of stars, and ee what you get: mountainproject.com/destina….

Just about every trad area in this state has at least one or two high quality, easy to moderate routes.

Glenn Schuler · · Monument, Co. · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,330

You may get better advice if you tell us where you are located - Co. is a big place.

11 Mile Canyon fits the bill for some good trad moderates for learning to lead. Welcome to Colorado & good luck!

Ray Lovestead · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 108

I second the Kor's flake. And I'd add Crack of Fear and Hair City in Eldo.

climbing codger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0

Kor's Flake is good but I'd recomend Naked Edge in Eldo, maybe free solo....

Paul Crowder · · Louisville, CO · Joined Aug 2001 · Points: 515

Goodness. Laurita should ignore the dangerous advice that starts with the Kor's Flake recommendation. The folks who responded prior to that remark were actually being helpful.

ErikaNW · · Golden, CO · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 410

Back to serious recommendations now.... The Staircase in 11-mile is fun, great climbing (5.6 I think) and eats gear. Seal Rock in the flatirons is also great - the 1st 2pitches are typical flatirons, not a lot of gear easy slab climbing, but the last pitch is the best 5.4 finger crack ever - easy to protect and super fun. You should also get on Breezy on the Wind Tower and West Crack on the Whale Tail in Eldo. You didn't specify grades, but these are all 5.easy and also good climbs that protect well. Have fun and climb safe!

climbing codger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0

I wasn't serious with my recommendation of Naked Edge- was poking fun at guy that suggested Kor's Flake (I hope he was only kidding....)

Kors Flake is 6 tough pitches of 5.8, runout, non-beginner climbing
Crack of Fear and Hair City are scary climbs and Naked Edge is really scary.....

Seriously, try the 3rd Flatiron, East Crack on the Dome, Various 5.7 routes on Cob Rock or White Whale in Lumpy Ridge....

climbing codger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0

I wasn't serious with my recommendation of Naked Edge- was poking fun at guy that suggested Kor's Flake (I hope he was only kidding....)

Kors Flake is 6 tough pitches of 5.8, runout, non-beginner climbing
Crack of Fear and Hair City are scary climbs and Naked Edge is really scary.....

Seriously, try the 3rd Flatiron, East Crack on the Dome, Various 5.7 routes on Cob Rock or White Whale in Lumpy Ridge....

teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

What does beginner mean to you?

Some really nice pure crack climbs at Turkey Rocks in the South Platte.

There is a great 4 pitch 5.7 on Lover's Leap in Morrison.

The Dome on BoCan has several reasonably moderate routes.

The Flatirons are dead easy climbing, but often run out in a way that may not be beginner friendly.

Castlewood Canyon has some short, easy trad routes: but beware: Castlweood is the land of the monster sandbag, so aim low.

Also: I know a climber mommy that also has a 4 month old. I'll point her to your thread.

Jeremy Bauman · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,067

Isn't the descent from Kor's Flake less than straight forward as well?

There's a handful of easy 5.5-5.7 trad routes up at North Table. Cob Rock in Boulder Canyon has some good 5.7s.

The Wind Tower in Eldorado Canyon has several good beginner routes with pretty easy descents. I remember loving those routes back when I was getting my start.

Just my 2 cents!

Welcome to CO!

Jeremy

First Track Jack · · Evergreen, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 140

If you are an experienced trad climber looking to start leading, the Staircase/ 11 Mile Canyon is awesome and there are other easy routes in that area. Whales Tail in Eldorado Canyon has 2 great one pitch trad routes to start off on as well..

If you are new or fairly new to trad climbing, I suggest taking a class with an AMGA Instructor or Guide and start off in the right direction.

Enjoy Colorado...

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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