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downturned shoes

Original Post
runout · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 30

I don't know if I need downturned shoes or not.

So we have all seen 5.9 climbers with the most expensive and aggressive shoes and I have seen climbers in your "entry level" flat lasted shoes crushing your projects.

I climb mostly at the Red River Gorge now so it's all overhanging. Will they help with endurance, or am I not going to need it because I'm stepping on jugs anyway?

Craig T · · Chicago, IL · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 0

At the red, even on jugs, the downturn helps you pull a bit with your toe if the wall is steep or the feature is far off to the side. Is it needed? No. Will it magically bump you up 3 grades? No. However, they exist for a reason, and people prefer them for certain types of climbing for a reason.

K R · · CA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 50

I'm not the hardest climber, but I pull out the downturned shoes more than any other pair for single pitch climbing. I have four pairs of shoes to choose from, and they all come out on different climbs, but if small features or overhangs are involved, the downturned, pointed shoe is great. I definitely have an easier time on certain climbs because of them, but on some climbs they are worse or equal with other shoes.

Joe M · · MA and NH · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 11,725

Check out the new Redlines from Madrock, radically downturned pointed toe. Just got a pair, and I like them so far...

Glenn Schuler · · Monument, Co. · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,330

For the steeps, they will make you feel like you have super grippy little monkey hands for feet. If you can afford them, get some.

Brad Caldwell · · Deep in the Jocassee Gorges · Joined May 2010 · Points: 1,400

Usually down turned shoes are designed for overhanging terrain...but I find that I like the Evolv Shamans for just about any rock and even climb better on slabs than I do with a traditional slab climbing show. Shoes can play a mental role in your ascent more than a physical role. If you flail around in some entry level shoes, then you may accidentally train yourself to not trust them when it comes to the crux of a route...your brain drifts back to memories of flailing and you set yourself up for failure.

runout · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 30

So the next question is: what is a good entry level downturned shoe?

I have bad luck with sportiva shoes; they just don't fit my feet right, but I would consider them if I can find a pair for cheap.

K R · · CA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 50

Mad Rock Shark 2.0 is a cheaper option compared to Solutions, similar shoe.

Jon Zucco · · Denver, CO · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 245

I've good luck with instinct and vapor slippers. Here's a decent deal on vapors:

gearx.com/scarpa-vapor-s-cl…

runout · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 30
Jon Zucco wrote:I've good luck with instinct and vapor slippers. Here's a decent deal on vapors: gearx.com/scarpa-vapor-s-cl…
Thanks for the suggestion, but isn't scarpa just an offshoot of sportiva?
Rob Gordon · · Hollywood, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 115

Solutions are by far the best. I like and wear Arrowheads because they are usually cheap online and I've always been an Anasazi person.

Jacob Smith · · Seattle, WA · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 230
O.L.D.S.A.G. wrote: isn't scarpa just an offshoot of sportiva?
Nope, totally different companies. They are both Italian, so their sizing will be similar, but in terms of fit they are very different. Scarpa tends to run wide whereas La Sportiva runs narrow.
doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264
O.L.D.S.A.G. wrote: Thanks for the suggestion, but isn't scarpa just an offshoot of sportiva?
No, but they stole the last maker from La Sportiva, so their latest shoe offerings feature pretty much similar last to Sportiva's. Vapors are not that downturned, at least the Velcros I've had.

If you don't like Sportiva, check out Evolv Shamans or Tenaya Ra - I heard they fit super comfortable just out of the box. At some point Tenaya was offering free returns for in case you wanted to check out several sizes.
Brad Caldwell · · Deep in the Jocassee Gorges · Joined May 2010 · Points: 1,400
O.L.D.S.A.G. wrote:So the next question is: what is a good entry level downturned shoe? I have bad luck with sportiva shoes; they just don't fit my feet right, but I would consider them if I can find a pair for cheap.
Depends on your foot. If you dont like Sportivas, is it because they are too narrow for your foot? If so, I'd check out the Evolv Shamans or Primes for a good fit for a larger volume foot. Primes arent as downturned as Shamans, but both have helped me hang on to send some of the hardest boulder problems I've ever topped out.
Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,945

Solutions > Testarrossas

runout · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 30
Brad Caldwell wrote: Depends on your foot. If you dont like Sportivas, is it because they are too narrow for your foot? If so, I'd check out the Evolv Shamans or Primes for a good fit for a larger volume foot. Primes arent as downturned as Shamans, but both have helped me hang on to send some of the hardest boulder problems I've ever topped out.
Yup, you got it. My feet are very high volume and wide. Sportiva shoes hurt and have lots of dead space when I put them on no matter how I size it. Maybe I just need to spend more time at the store trying shoes on, but Anasazi line fit me very well.

I have a pair of Defys for gym climbing and I was surprised by the fit and performance. They fit really well, just as well as any Anasazi shoe I have put on. I will definitely look for evolv shoes as well.
Brad Caldwell · · Deep in the Jocassee Gorges · Joined May 2010 · Points: 1,400
O.L.D.S.A.G. wrote: Yup, you got it. My feet are very high volume and wide. Sportiva shoes hurt and have lots of dead space when I put them on no matter how I size it. Maybe I just need to spend more time at the store trying shoes on, but Anasazi line fit me very well. I have a pair of Defys for gym climbing and I was surprised by the fit and performance. They fit really well, just as well as any Anasazi shoe I have put on. I will definitely look for evolv shoes as well.
Evolv's may end up smelling like a dead rotten dog carcass after a year or so of wear, but I think they climb the best for me and they have very sticky rubber. I used to wear Defy's and switched to Primes and Shamans and couldn't be happier.

As far as the tight fit...I dont buy my shoes to fit tight, but comfortably. Most people's feet will swell a little during the day as you climb, so getting them to fit tight in the beginning is begging for them to be too tight when your feet begin to swell 2-3 hours into climbing. I wear size 11-12 in street shoes but I buy size 12.5 or 13 in Shamans and Primes. They are still tight enough to be responsive, but loose enough so I'm not hurting too bad while trying to send. After nearly 25 years of climbing/bouldering I've found its personal preference as to tightness of shoes, dont let anyone tell you different.
Frank Stein · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205

If you like Anasazi shoes, why not try the Dragons? They are built on the same last, are downturned, and fit similarly.

doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264

If you find a shoe that fits, they shouldn't hurt beyond just initial slight discomfort before getting broken in. The thing to look for is dead space in the heel - you will find out that your performance shoes are worthless when toe or heel hooking.

I'm used to a tight fit on any of my shoes though, the only sloppy shoes I have are the shoes I climb at Indian Creek. My Miura VS's are not comfortable to stand on for a long time or walking around, but as soon as I leave the ground I could barely notice them. It's like fitting ski shoes or ice skate shoes - only beginners fit them sloppy.

runout · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 30
the schmuck wrote:If you like Anasazi shoes, why not try the Dragons? They are built on the same last, are downturned, and fit similarly.
I thought arrowhead and quantum are based on the anasazi last, but dragons are a different last?

Besides, dragons are too expensive for what I do (for now).

How are evolv bandits? They look like they are slightly downturned.
Frank Stein · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205

I have two pairs of Dragons, and they really do fit my foot very similarly to old style Anasazi pinks, and old Velcros...As a matter of fact, the Dragons were the closest shoes I could find to those two once they were discontinued (minus for the downturned toe). If you shop around, you can usually find them on sale.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Sport Climbing
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