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Two new English language guidebooks for Dolomites now avaialble!

Original Post
Rodger Raubach · · Billings, MT · Joined May 2010 · Points: 6,557

For those interested in climbing in the Dolomites, Guidebooks written in English seem to be a scarce commodity. The Kohler and Memel "Classic Dolomite Climbs" is currently out of print, as well as somewhat limited in scope.

On my present trip to Italy/Dolomites, I came across "Mid Grade Trad Rock; Western Dolomites 1," and similarly "Western Dolomites 2," both by Emiliano Zorzi. They are a bit "spendy" at 23.50 Eu each (roughly $30-$35, depending on exchange rates), but are well illustrated with good color photographs and small topos. The author has another volume still only available in Italian which covers some harder climbs in additional areas.

Areas covered are Odle (Geisler), Langkofel (Sassolungo), Sella, Pale di San Martino, Marmolata, and Catinnacio. Volume 2 also adds the Pale di San Lucano and Monte Agner areas. A total of 51 routes are included in Volume 1, and 57 in Volume 2. These are mostly different than the routes in the Kohler-Memel book, but with popular climbs considered there is a little overlap.

These seem to be well translated from my previous German language editions. Overall they are a welcome addition to the literature of Dolomite mountaineering.

Nick Votto · · CO, CT, IT · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 320

Good info thanks

fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318

Thanks for the update. I just noticed this new Rockfax one as well. Will report back once it arrives.

kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 16,608
fossana wrote:I just noticed this new Rockfax one as well.
The author of that one seems fairly active on UKClimbing.com forums.

Older English-language guidebooks include the two-volume set of the (British) Alpine Club, authored by Ron James (2005).

For sport climbing ...

Arrampicata sportiva a Cortina d'Ampezzo (3rd edition), by Roberto Casanova / Gruppo Scoiattoli
is tri-lingual Italian - German - English

Just today a Polish climber showed me a newer Sport climbing guidebook (2013?) which is also tri-lingual with English.

. (seeing how many days of unstable + moist weather there's been in Dolomites in recent years, Sport climbing is a valuable option).
. (It could also become an important option for those visitors who are shocked to discover how much loose rock there is on many classic multi-pitch Trad routes in the Dolomites).

Ken

P.S. and for those who think of the Arco region as sort of part of the Dolomites (not me) - both the Trad multi-pitch guidebook and the Sport guidebook are available in English.
fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318

Update:
So far I like the new Rockfax Dolomites guide, although I won't have a chance to test out the beta for a few more weeks. It's well-organized/cross-referenced (including approach times, sun/wind exposure, significant runout factor) with 496 full color pages and tons of photos. There are ~30 via ferrata routes, the rest climbing.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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