Mountain Project Logo

Anyone make a 2' (60 cm) Dyneema quickdraw?

Original Post
Josh Janes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 9,954

After reading about Wayne Crill's accident, and the ensuing discussion of how to make systems safer, I began searching for such a thing but can't find one. Metolius makes a long one but it's not quite long enough and comes with carabiners. Yates Rabbit Runners are way too long. I'm looking for thin Dyneema like BD's or Mammut's... Is such a thing made?

Geoff Georges · · Seattle, WA · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 4,649
backcountry.com/metolius-ra…
I recently got these for sport anchors or multi pitch where there are bolted anchors. Mountain Tools also makes many sizes of rabbit ears. Camp makes .the longest actual quick draw I have seen, about a foot long.
BigFeet · · Texas · Joined May 2014 · Points: 385

I have not come across anything of what you are looking for other than the Metolius long draws of which you stated earlier.

I'm not sure why you don't make your own alpine draws with Mammut's contact slings (they have the length and slenderness you are looking for) and stay aware of what you are doing. Maybe use a locker, as was stated in the original thread.

Even my Metolius Bravo draws, DMM Phantoms have enough space at the rock end part of the sling to have the same issue.

Maybe someone can make and market a new dogbone, but it may only be a one-trick-pony peice of gear. Someone here will more than likely show disgust with such a thing as has happened with the PAS.

Edit to add:
I would not be against such a thing at all. The thing to remember is to make sure that using safer gear does not lead to complacency.

Josh Janes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 9,954

Using lockers, clove-hitching the 'biner (or otherwise securing it with tape or other method) are not viable options for me.

The Metolius Rabbit Runner is a bit too wide. So far the best option is Metolius' Long Draw (if I could get it without 'biners)... but would really like it to be a few inches longer...

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
Josh Janes wrote:(or otherwise securing it with tape or other method)...
for folks using the tape method be aware that it presents the same risk as the rubber band method unless you lock in the biner with a knot to prevent it from loading solely on the tape/rubber band
Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490
Josh Janes wrote:After reading about Wayne Crill's accident, and the ensuing discussion of how to make systems safer, I began searching for such a thing but can't find one. Metolius makes a long one but it's not quite long enough and comes with carabiners. Yates Rabbit Runners are way too long. I'm looking for thin Dyneema like BD's or Mammut's... Is such a thing made?
Welll not Dyneema but Stubai make 16mm nylon ones in 60cm with sewn-in rubber karabiner keepers. stubai-bergsport.com/quickd…
Must be horrific racked on your harness though!
Josh Janes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 9,954

Bearbreeder I was hoping you'd chime in with where I could find such a piece of gear rather than hijacking my thread with a PSA. Oh well!

Thanks Jim - we're on the right track with that but as you pointed out, way too wide and over-engineered.

BigFeet · · Texas · Joined May 2014 · Points: 385

Josh,

Why not make your own, for it would probably be less expensive.

Buy some Titan cord or similar, cut to your specification, knot around carabiner so that there is no room in the loop for the carabiner to unclip from.

120+ cm lenght cord (to account for triple fisherman's) tied/knotted in a loop, eight on a bite at rock and rope side, add carabiners, done.

rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847

You could try and use 1/2" tubular webbing as a sheath over the entire length of the sling. Not sure if it will pass through.

BigFeet · · Texas · Joined May 2014 · Points: 385

^^^ Never thought of this.

rocknice2,

I think I'm going to mess around with your idea here.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
BigFeet wrote:Josh, Why not make your own, for it would probably be less expensive. Buy some Titan cord or similar, cut to your specification, knot around carabiner so that there is no room in the loop for the carabiner to unclip from. 120+ cm lenght (to account for double fisherman's) tied in a loop, eight on a bite at rock and rope side, add carabiners, done.
another PSA here ... use a triple fishermans with titan or thin dyneema cord

as to the OPs question, i went through it all in a recent thread with the various options, as have the folks upthread here

if im worried i just use a locker, 2 opposed biners, or add a clove/overhand/fig8 ... and as stated above you can make your own

even with rabbit runners you still need to secure the end somehow, the advantage is that its less likely that that you get the "rubber band failure" scenario in these cases

regardless without lockers/opposed biners on both ends youll still have the issue of the rock side biner failing the same way ...

the question is how many steps and specialized gear do you add/take to prevent what is likely a rare occurrence?

note that lockers on both ends, or a second opposed draw in critical placements help prevent multiple failure scenarios on critical "cannot fail" placements
BigFeet · · Texas · Joined May 2014 · Points: 385

bearbreeder,

Good catch! Will edit.

Josh Janes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 9,954
bearbreeder wrote:the question is how many steps and specialized gear do you add/take to prevent what is likely a rare occurrence?
Actually, that is NOT the question. The question is: Does anyone make a 2'/60cm dyneema (thin) quickdraw?

I've already said that lockers, doubling up 'biners, and other shenanigans like that are not an option for me.

So far the closest thing is the Metolius Long Draw (but it is a little short and comes with 'biners). I may try the Titan cord idea and see how it works for me but am holding out hope for a longer draw.
slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

you might be able to get someone to make some custom for you, maybe runout customs, yates, etc?

Steve_ · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2012 · Points: 115

Mountain Tools in California will do custom lengths according to their website:
mtntools.com/Dealer/service…

Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180
Josh Janes wrote: Actually, that is NOT the question. The question is: Does anyone make a 2'/60cm dyneema (thin) quickdraw? I've already said that lockers, doubling up 'biners, and other shenanigans like that are not an option for me. So far the closest thing is the Metolius Long Draw (but it is a little short and comes with 'biners). I may try the Titan cord idea and see how it works for me but am holding out hope for a longer draw.
I think Bluewater is the only company making short rabbit runners but they are 1" nylon. bluewaterropes.com/product/…

Otherwise Sterling makes 44" dyneema rabbit runners that can be racked like a traditional extension draw.
Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

Why not just throw a few lengthwise rows of stitching (these aren't load bearing, obviously) into a normal 2 ft sling? Make one end loop snug for the rope end biner.

J. Serpico · · Saratoga County, NY · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 140

I've ended up using all of Bearbreeders recommendations over the last month or so (locker, extra biner, and clove) depending on the situation. While everything might be fine without it, my confidence is always higher when I trust my gear, which means I'm less likely to fall because I'm less scared about falling.

A long draw in 10mm dyneema, like the op requested, might be the ticket, at least for a handful of draws on my rack.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
Gunkiemike wrote:Why not just throw a few lengthwise rows of stitching (these aren't load bearing, obviously) into a normal 2 ft sling? Make one end loop snug for the rope end biner.
at the risk of being derided for another PSA ... there is the possibility of the same failure as the tape/elastic especially when you extend it ...

DONT let this happen ... should be pretty obvious

however one MPer has come up with a way that may possibly avoid that failure scenario a few years ago ...

mountainproject.com/v/warni…

Added loop to avoid 'hidden un-clipping'

test and use at your own risk as they say
Larry S · · Easton, PA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 872

If you can't find what you're looking for, have you considered that you could take an open sling and sew it flat, leaving the loops at the ends? That's essentially what the metolius Long-Draw is. Joining the two sides wouldn't be structural, It's just a cleaner way of doing the tape-job in the picture above (or the "thread it thru some 1/2" nylon" suggestion).

I haven't tried dynema in a household sewing machine, but it might be possible. Mine handled tubular nylon just fine.

Ted Angus · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 25

Crill's accident eeked me out about long runners in situations where unclipping would be disastrous/game over as well. I purchased one of these:

mec.ca/product/5038-160/gri…

I have used it several times now, and can say that it is not hard to use one handed from tenuous stances (as opposed to a screw gate). It is a little beefy, but I am only carrying one on a long runner over my shoulder and all other extended pieces are alpine drays on my harness. I simply use it in those circumstances that A) I'm prolly gonna fall in the upcoming sequence of moves ie the crux and B) If that piece goes in the fall, its real real bad. The run out extendo crux biner, if you will.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Anyone make a 2' (60 cm) Dyneema quickdraw?"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.