Bolting boulder problems

Last month I belayed my partner on a local limestone sport route. The start is really water polished and several locals have broken ankles there. I stick clipped the second bolt at about 19 to 20 ft off the deck. As he was leading he fell off on the slick entry moves 6 ft up and even with a fairly tight belay and all the rope stretch removed, he came within 3 ft of hitting the deck. We were using a good condition 10.2 Eldelweiss. Doug weights about 165 lbs.

Something to think about. IMO you are better off to use crash pads and good spotters for anything under 20 ft.

Bolt on top. Not saying do it but I have heard of it and have seen it on a few highball problems. I presume the bolt is used to clean the routes though not for climbing.

Climbing friend,

Please do no bolt the problem boulders. I suggest you complete better 4-plan for training for the climbing rocks, and simply make enjoyable flash of the boulder, using all strength, technique, and mental composure on this climbing rock.

One or two bolts...no way man you need at least 3-4.

It is embarrassing and entertaining that people are not getting this.

"Real Climbers" only use cams to protect boulder problems... duh.

Well if it's a bolted boulder problem, then technically it's no longer a boulder problem. It's a top rope.

I know I wouldn't be caught dead with no shirt on and rocking a beanie flashing a onsite toprope. Maybe for the redpoint...

spend your money travelling to the new or red please. the rock in NE ohio is garbage, plus if you bolt anything that is less than 30 ft I will come and find these bolts and rip them out

and for the love of god please don't contribute to already high number of injuries at wipps ledges