Type: Trad, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: S. Levin, free solo, September 1990, F. Knapp, D. Hare, 1991 (2nd)
Page Views: 740 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jul 18, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


4 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Blob, Security Risk DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

A hard route for the grade, with no pro down low. It would be easy to get injured slipping off the holds down low, which are surprisingly insecure for such good edges.

There is more protection as you get about 20' up, but that is past the crux anyway.

Down low get into the center area of a broad, black streak and find some good-angled crimpers - set feet and heave up onto higher holds, eventually heading slightly right to the right side of the back streak. A few small nuts could be placed there, then continue up and left passing a few intermittent cracks and potential placements as you go higher (and the climbing gets easier).

The crux is down low and not really protectable, so consider a TR, which can be done on Camalots up above the climb.

To retreat, belay the second up and walk off, or walk down to some anchors across an edge (to the South) and rap 40-50' to the ledge.

Location Suggest change

This is the leftmost route on Cenotaph proper, which starts in and follows a black water stain. Te black rock is surprisingly textured and positive, but the holds on smooth horizontal edges are somewhat less frictiony.

Protection Suggest change

There is not much worth placing in the harder climbing down low, a few nuts and small cams higher as the climbing gets easier. Bring up to a #3 Camalot for an anchor up top for a TR.

Photos

loading