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The 2014-2015 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread

phil wortmann · · Colorado Springs, Co. · Joined Feb 2005 · Points: 1,186

We were up on Pikes yesterday scratching around and ran into a team that had bailed on both TA and BA because the ice was too thin, soft, and chandeliery. With the weather for this week I imagine it will get worse by next weekend. The temps are barely dipping below freezing at night and there is very little water.

There has been a lot of perception of us having a "wet summer," but we are actually below normal for the year mostly statewide. We'll need more storms over the next month, but that would be unusual for our Indian Summer season. October is typically one of the driest months in Co. This is good though, since we can get down to business establishing some hard Scratch and Dangle routes without the distraction of all that Phat ice.

But, I'm an optimist. I believe things can get worse!

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

pixie love

is lincoln in yet??

Noah McKelvin · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,500

Is Martha in right now?

Cor · · Sandbagging since 1989 · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,445

Yesterday we climbed an awesome 800' WI4 on Mt.Project! Was thin in spots, but mostly awesome!

See the double peak mountain up in the header of yer screen.. It comes down between the summits, FYI.

Andy Nelson · · Fort Collins, Colorado · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 336

The "Window Pain" on 9/13. Although not sure if it touched down. Only in my dreams could I climb something like that. Again, bravo Cooper and Donahue.

The Window Pain - 9/13/14.

ozman · · CO / NM · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 510

Pretty good website that tracks new posts to climbing sites and various blogs. Good central location that I use to track what's up. Updated live. climbersblog.alaskaiceclimb…

H BL · · Colorado · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 95

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOooooooooooooooooooo

I'm not looking at this thread lalallalalalala. I'm a month out of surgery. Well hoping to be back at it in February/March.

Rob Cotter · · Silverthorne, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 240
Rick McL · · Arvada CO · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 50
ozman wrote:Pretty good website that tracks new posts to climbing sites and various blogs. Good central location that I use to track what's up. Updated live. climbersblog.alaskaiceclimb…
Oz,
Good stuff.
Thank you.
-R
Rob Cotter · · Silverthorne, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 240

If watching this this doesn't get your nipples hard yer already dead...

Beyond Good and Evil

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

And it's on!! Nice work!

climbing.com/news/its-on-de…

Mike Fink · · Salida, CO · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 45

Got over optimistic with last weeks precip & cold temps so drove down to Pikes today. TA is looking really dry & BA looks no better. Not a big loss with such a short approach.

Total Abandon 10/3/14

With the dry/warm/sunny forecast this week I'm guessing Pikes is going to need at least 3 more weeks. Should have hit the Black Wall I guess... Nice work Will & Ben!

Andy Nelson · · Fort Collins, Colorado · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 336

In case you were wondering...

Longs Cirque 10/4/2014
I didn't climb anything (didn't see anyone climbing) - was just up there for the day with my Dad. Stuff seemed perhaps fragile? - but I'm a noob to the E. Face routes - take it as you will. And who knows what the next week of weather will bring?

michael voth · · Ft. Collins, CO · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 75

^^ (heavy breathing)

Matt Wolski · · Salt Lake City · Joined May 2002 · Points: 355

Ditto ^^^
Coloradans, please interpret this juicy tidbit of information for the out-of-towners.

LawHous · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 481
Matt Wolski wrote:Ditto ^^^ Coloradans, please interpret this juicy tidbit of information for the out-of-towners.
Longs Peak (The Diamond in background) covered in streaks of ice. Meaning routes in the area (Alexanders, Dark Star, Smear of Fear) will be in, if not already, very soon!!! It's ice season!!
Brice W · · Front Range, CO · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 20

Here are a couple of pics of the E face of Notchtop. Hard to tell from far away, but it seemed thin. We did the left-most Ptarmigan finger gully. The snow was surprisingly consolidated and great for climbing. It's not steep, maybe 40 degrees at the most.

E Face of Notchtop.

E Face of Notchtop.

Ptarmigan Fingers.

Blake B · · Englewood, CO · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 5
LawHous wrote: Longs Peak (The Diamond in background) covered in streaks of ice. Meaning routes in the area (Alexanders, Dark Star, Smear of Fear) will be in, if not already, very soon!!! It's ice season!!
Just to add to the discussion: I went up Tyndall Gorge on Saturday (10/4) to see how things were shaping up with the intention of climbing Tyndall Glacier. There were definitely many streaks of ice coming down both sides of the gorge, but up close they were all pretty thin and detached. So while "in" is certainly a subjective condition, I don't think most folks would consider it there yet. But it's definitely coming! Also, we did not climb the glacier as it appeared to have significant wind slabs on it. Brice had the better idea climbing Ptarmigan Fingers, as it has a more favorable aspect to the prevailing winds. Hope this info proves useful to some.
Nodin deSaillan · · Boulder · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 80

Any fresh eyes/thoughts on TA?

Alexey Dynkin · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0

Bump for the question on Martha...and also the Flying Dutchman.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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