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Farts of Horsemen
5.12a/b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.4 from 15
votes
Routes in Contest Wall
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9 to 5 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Agent Orange S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Apple Bites Back, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Apple Jam T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Aretissima S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Armistice (AKA The Armisist) S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Awakenings S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Big Froggy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bitten by a Manpris S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Black Rib S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Cactus Carrie S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Cactus Drop S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cattle Prod S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cave Troll S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cholla My Valentine S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Concrete Jungle S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Cumulocrimpus S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Curious George S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dead Tree Crack S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dough Boys S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dr. Howard's Digital Exam S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dune, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Energizer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Enterprise S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Farts of Horsemen S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Fossil Fueled S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Gotham City S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Grand Cru S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Here Comes Midnight With The Dead Moon In Its Jaws S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hide n' Seek S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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High Pockets S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Holy Sheath S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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It's Miller Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Jelly Bellies S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jump for Cholla T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lime and Punishment S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Limestone Lady S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Limestone Politician S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Liquid Pork S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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List, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Little Mecca S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Little Red Badge of Courage S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Little Wolfie S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Metropolis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Monster Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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No Place for a Gentleman S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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No Place For a Lady S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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No Tomorrow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Not So Killer Bees S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Opportunist, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Orb, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Perilous S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Pesko Sour S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Phase Dance S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pocket Laureate S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Porkus Non Grata S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Primal Urge S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Regroovable S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Renaissance S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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River of Rabbits S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rodao S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Scary Carrie S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Scruples S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Shithouse Traverse V0- 4- |
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Short Slaughter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Silverado S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Single Gun Theory S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Slamdance Cosmopolis (aka It Takes a Village) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Slipper Queen S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Spice is Nice S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Spike aka BR 1 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Spinney Dan S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sprayburn S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sticks And Stones S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Strangeways T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Suburbia S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Taos Hum S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Time Square S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tinsel Town aka BR 2? S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Top Fun S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tortuga S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Trick-or-Treat S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Truancy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Turbo Road S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown A S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Utopia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vail Athletic Club S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wee Man S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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You Snooze, You Lose S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Zia S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Unpublished |
| Page Views: | 1,632 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Oct 20, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Most trips to the Contest Wall in Sand Gulch lead me to Farts. Loads better than the name might indicate, Farts of Horsemen is near the North end of the canyon but well before the cross-over trail. Climbing is on a dark, inset wall off a mound/block above the trail, and Farts shares an anchor with No Tomorrow, on the right.
Start off on a small section of less than optimal stone, and make a right traverse on crystals and friable appearing stone. For me, the hard climbing starts just as soon as you step over right. A bit of seam gets things going, and the opening moves feel 5.12a to me. Climbing after the first 30 feet settles down a bit but never drops below middle 5.11. The climbing is interesting and varied on crystals, cobbles, and shallow pockets.
Overall, the continuity is excellent, and Farts gives up very little rest. For my preferred style of climbing, I would rank Farts on par with Little Mecca for overall quality, soundness of the stone, continuity, and interesting moves. This is an excellent line.
Start off on a small section of less than optimal stone, and make a right traverse on crystals and friable appearing stone. For me, the hard climbing starts just as soon as you step over right. A bit of seam gets things going, and the opening moves feel 5.12a to me. Climbing after the first 30 feet settles down a bit but never drops below middle 5.11. The climbing is interesting and varied on crystals, cobbles, and shallow pockets.
Overall, the continuity is excellent, and Farts gives up very little rest. For my preferred style of climbing, I would rank Farts on par with Little Mecca for overall quality, soundness of the stone, continuity, and interesting moves. This is an excellent line.
Photos
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