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Good Red Rock routes for lead roped solos

Original Post
Le gion · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 15

I'd like to start exploring RR for lead roped solos. Want to start out mellow and minimize drama since I've only climbed there a handful of times. Suggested routes?

Here's what I'm looking for. I realize the "not a trade route" criteria may make it difficult for the rest of the criteria to be met, but...

- Not a trade route (don't want to clog up the conga line)
- Does NOT have to be stellar aesthetics (just trying to dial in technique on RR rock)
- 5.8 or under
- 4-8 pitches
- Bolted belays (or easy pro for upward anchors)
- Minimum choss
- Straightforward, no-rope descents
- Straightforward route-finding

Btw, one route on my list is MysterZ in Juniper Canyon, so opinions about that specific one are welcome. I realize it may be pretty popular and is an approach to Brownstone, but otherwise it seems to meet my needs.

W L · · NEVADASTAN · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 851

Myster-Z's anchors were a little funky to set up from what I recall, but I also am from the school of 3 bomber pieces in sandstone. Not much gear on that one either from what I recall, but a fun scramble.

One I really enjoyed doing rope solo was Tunnel Vision. I was alone on that wall that day (it was a Saturday in early May 2013) and it was a super fun afternoon cruise. The gear at all of the belays made me feel warm and fuzzy rope soloing on it except for the final belay...that one was kinda sketchy, I remember not liking it, but I was also new to living in a place where sandstone is the primary kind of rock as well and may have been freaking out unduly.

Either way you should have a blast, go have fun and an adventure!

Le gion · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 15
John Wilder wrote:Purblind Pillar- it's getting more popular, but still a bit obscure.
Good to hear as that happens to be on my list too.

John Wilder wrote:Windy Peak- anything out there, really. It'll have to wait for winter, though- full south facing.
Also on my list, specifically Jubilant Song. Good to see I'm in the ballpark.

Weston L wrote:One I really enjoyed doing rope solo was Tunnel Vision.
Hmm, I recall noting to specifically avoid that for roped soloing due to the hard-to-protect chimney pitch. To each his own!

Thx for the suggestions! More welcome.
Aaron S · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 150

The chimney pitch on Tunnel Vision is really chill, basically 5.3ish squeeze chimneying, so don't let that dissuade you. Cookie Monster would be perfect as far as the climbing goes. You do need a rope to descend but a single 70m will get you down Cat in the Hat.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
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