Inexpensive bolt extractor
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This is a tool that can be useful in cleanly extracting stud bolts. |
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Thanks for posting this. Very cool design. Once extracted, does the little sleeve of the wedge bolt remain in hole once the cone disengages from it? |
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Thanks a ton Gregger!! I have been trying to figure out what to do about some wedge bolts that need replacing, but I wasn't sure how to get a wedge anchor out (obviously its harder than getting a sleeve bolt out). So thanks, very useful info!! I am guessing that your tool is used after you have already tapped the bolt into the rock a bit to unseat the wedge, and then scored the inside of the bolt (i.e. your spin method) so that the wedge cannot -re-engage when you pull using your new cheap extractor. Is this correct? |
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I've pulled a few button head bolts from the 70s era using a lost arrow cut into a fork shape. It's quite a bit of work and the head of the bolt can break off. Here's my procedure: |
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Thanks Ryan, but removing a button and removing a 3/8" wedge are totally different animals. But yes, the rest of your method is more or less standard practice. |
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Laine wrote:Thanks for posting this. Very cool design. Once extracted, does the little sleeve of the wedge bolt remain in hole once the cone disengages from it?If you manage to pull the wedge bolt out without breaking it, the collar/sleeve will come out intact. |
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J. Albers wrote:Thanks a ton Gregger!! I have been trying to figure out what to do about some wedge bolts that need replacing, but I wasn't sure how to get a wedge anchor out (obviously its harder than getting a sleeve bolt out). So thanks, very useful info!! I am guessing that your tool is used after you have already tapped the bolt into the rock a bit to unseat the wedge, and then scored the inside of the bolt (i.e. your spin method) so that the wedge cannot -re-engage when you pull using your new cheap extractor. Is this correct? Another issue though is the following. Most of the bolts that I want to replace were put up on lead, so that the holes are likely not over drilled so you can't simply tap the stud into the hole to unseat the wedge. Do you have any advice in this circumstance or I will I simply be left with cutting the stud off flush with the rock, patching and camouflaging the old hole, and then placing a new SS rig?Yes, you *usually* need to spin the stud first after knocking it in slightly to disengage the wedge. If it is very rusty you might be able to simply pull. It is advisable to use the tool to break a fresh bolt (in a small test boulder) in order to know how much force is too much force. Some studs leave too little thread protruding from the rock to afford knocking it in first. Some studs will also start spinning without any hammer blow to soften 'em up. So even if it is in a shallow hole, try spinning and/or pulling anyway. |
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Great - way better than chopping the bolt! Thanks for posting. |
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Gregger Man wrote: Yes, you *usually* need to spin the stud first after knocking it in slightly to disengage the wedge. If it is very rusty you might be able to simply pull. It is advisable to use the tool to break a fresh bolt (in a small test boulder) in order to know how much force is too much force. Some studs leave too little thread protruding from the rock to afford knocking it in first. Some studs will also start spinning without any hammer blow to soften 'em up. So even if it is in a shallow hole, try spinning and/or pulling anyway.Thanks for the reply Gregger. Cheers. |
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I've made some bolt pullers but they were hard work to use. I would guess the Acme type threads from the C-clamp would take less torque thus making it easier. Good idea to use the clamp. |
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Granite - haven't gotten the chance yet. I pulled five 1/2" Rawls with it this morning and it works well. Since it can easily break a 3/8" stud it can provide more than enough force to extract one that has been sufficiently spun by the spinner tool. |
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Greggor, |
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Dan Merrick wrote:Greggor, I don't know what you mean by spinner tool. I'm new here so perhaps I missed something. Thanks, Danhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLl59N-HIds&list=UU-6UF1brKKJ48IU-gLZ0dbQ |
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Very useful info,thanks guys. |
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The spinner tool is awesome, I'll have to try it in granite. |
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When I type 'rebolting' it does auto-correct to 'revolting'... |
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Thanks again Gregger, the info is greatly appreciated. |
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Update: |
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Gregger Man wrote:Update: it works. I only needed to use it on one of these. The rest came out by spinning alone.So, just another way to make the spinner tool (very inexpensively). I took an old 3/4" worn out SDS bit and just cut the drill bit portion off then drilled and tapped the end to accept the 3/8" bolts. I only tapped it about 3/8" deep so that it will bottom out on the bolt threads before the tool hits the rock. Obviously this is only an inexpensive method if you have an old used 3/4" sds bit laying around. Now I need to go try it out! |
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Nice work Greg! |