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Karmic Realignment
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in Summit Cliff (The Highlands)
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Aiming for the Pleiades S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Boy Who Cried Wolf, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Corax crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dr. Dingle S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Four Seasons S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Giant's Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Gospel According to Mark, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Guardian, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Karmic Realignment S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Northern Lights S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Northwest Passage S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Passing on the Right TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Path of the Righteous S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rumpus Time S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Three Bump Dumper S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Visions of Jerusalem S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Where the Wild Things Are S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Yid Kid, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Brady Libby |
| Page Views: | 1,447 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Eric Leclerc on Sep 15, 2014 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
This is one of the coolest 5.12a's I have ever climbed. Not the longest. Not the easiest approach. Not the easiest location. But definetly the coolest moves especially when your back is against the wall, your feet on the other side, you have the roof a couple of inches above you and you look at the void below.
Bridge your back and your feet moving left as far as you can until you are about to fall and use that wonderful undercling to get out of the bridging position and reach out of the roof to a good hold. Power out of the roof and get a shake before getting to the anchor.
Just a spectacular climb. People that love the 100 ft of left-right-left climbing, stay away from it.
Brady Libby is a genius to have found this jewel and deserves credit for bolting this route. Thanks Brady!!!
Logistic tips:
It is better to belay from a small ledge at 3/4 of the 5.8 approach slab. There are a few unstable blocs at the start of Karmic Realignment that could come down and the belayer would be in the path if he/she was belaying from the bottom of the slab.
Climb the 5.8 slab up to the last bolt before the anchor and use this bolt and the one lower to set an anchor maybe 10-15 feet lower on a ledge. It is best to bring another 10-15 meter rope for this.
Stick clip the first two bolts on Karmic and start climbing a little higher to the right of the first bolt to avoid an always dirty and wet section. The rest of the climb is on clean rock.
There used to be a small tree growing in the corner where the hard part starts but I just cut all the branches on 2019-08-31.
Bridge your back and your feet moving left as far as you can until you are about to fall and use that wonderful undercling to get out of the bridging position and reach out of the roof to a good hold. Power out of the roof and get a shake before getting to the anchor.
Just a spectacular climb. People that love the 100 ft of left-right-left climbing, stay away from it.
Brady Libby is a genius to have found this jewel and deserves credit for bolting this route. Thanks Brady!!!
Logistic tips:
It is better to belay from a small ledge at 3/4 of the 5.8 approach slab. There are a few unstable blocs at the start of Karmic Realignment that could come down and the belayer would be in the path if he/she was belaying from the bottom of the slab.
Climb the 5.8 slab up to the last bolt before the anchor and use this bolt and the one lower to set an anchor maybe 10-15 feet lower on a ledge. It is best to bring another 10-15 meter rope for this.
Stick clip the first two bolts on Karmic and start climbing a little higher to the right of the first bolt to avoid an always dirty and wet section. The rest of the climb is on clean rock.
There used to be a small tree growing in the corner where the hard part starts but I just cut all the branches on 2019-08-31.
Location
When you are below Visions of Jerusalem, this is pretty much the end of the "TRAIL".
You can climb the slab to the right of the gully (6 bolts to 2 glue in anchor).The start is in front of the 5th bolt on the slab. Look above at the nice roof.
You can climb the slab to the right of the gully (6 bolts to 2 glue in anchor).The start is in front of the 5th bolt on the slab. Look above at the nice roof.
Protection
Bolts to LO.
To make cleaning easier, once you are at the roof and you clip the last bolt in the roof, you can remove the previous draw which is deep in the cave. The anchor has two carabiners. Lower down and remove the last three draws including the one in the roof. Go down to the belay ledge and have you or your partner to climb on the other end of the rope to clean the bottom draws.
To make cleaning easier, once you are at the roof and you clip the last bolt in the roof, you can remove the previous draw which is deep in the cave. The anchor has two carabiners. Lower down and remove the last three draws including the one in the roof. Go down to the belay ledge and have you or your partner to climb on the other end of the rope to clean the bottom draws.
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