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Routes in Rabbit Rock - Southwest
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Go Spud Go! S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Hyperspuds T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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No Satisfaction T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Redtail S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Roughleg T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Seasonal Employment T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Spuds in the Gym S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sudden Pleasure S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Jay Goodwin, early 1980's |
| Page Views: | 1,215 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Brian B Ballard on Jul 11, 2011 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
This is the obvious Right facing corner on the south end of the west side of Rabbit Rock. It is a rather interesting mountaineering type of route that encourages creativity.
P1: Climb the corner left of redtail (11a) cross redtail short of the top of the corner to the large ledge. Belay at the base of the main corner.
P2: Follow the corner (slightly dirty and continue straight up in or out of the crack as you please. At the end of the crack continue just right of the large roof(chimney) until you are comfortable to scramble on.
P1: Climb the corner left of redtail (11a) cross redtail short of the top of the corner to the large ledge. Belay at the base of the main corner.
P2: Follow the corner (slightly dirty and continue straight up in or out of the crack as you please. At the end of the crack continue just right of the large roof(chimney) until you are comfortable to scramble on.
Location
Approach:
On the south end of rabbit rock this route starts just to the left of popular redtail (5.11) in a wide right facing corner. To get there follow the trail between parking lot rock and morning glory spire the south end of rabbit rock should be just ahead follow a path up a short slab to the base of the route.
Descent:
Walk off to the north end of the rock or rappel from anchors near north end. We found some on NE side and came up a few feet short with a 60m rope.
On the south end of rabbit rock this route starts just to the left of popular redtail (5.11) in a wide right facing corner. To get there follow the trail between parking lot rock and morning glory spire the south end of rabbit rock should be just ahead follow a path up a short slab to the base of the route.
Descent:
Walk off to the north end of the rock or rappel from anchors near north end. We found some on NE side and came up a few feet short with a 60m rope.
Photos
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