A bit of exposure from the top!

All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Castle Valley > Castleton Tower > N Chimney (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a)

A bit of exposure from the top!

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John Schmidt topping out on the last pitch of the North Chimney.

Having fun with 40+ mile an hour winds on the top of Castleton

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4.9 from 17 votes

Sunshine11 Lovas

Sep 16, 2014

“A bit of exposure from the top!”

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John Schmidt topping out on the last pitch of the North Chimney.

A bit of exposure from the top!

Having fun with 40+ mile an hour winds on the top of Castleton

Route Overlay Castleton North Chimney.

67 years old, enjoying the shade on the summit of Castleton after North Chimney. Couple of old dudes getting 'er done.

looking across the valley. third pitch

Looking up at the third pitch on North Chimney

Calcite detail, N Chimney belay.

looking down at the last baly.. on a sweet day lil clouds lots of fun cool temps good frends

Somewhere on the 3rd pitch

P4 transferring to the Kor Ingalls at the top.

Joe following on the first pitch of North Chimney

Kyle Heck doing a victory handstand on top.

I call him "Herman". Worth bringing to back up the manky bolt.

Inside the chimney!

N. Chimney

Some folks had a high line set up between Castleton and the Rectory.

Bart Fay leading the 1st pitch of the North Chimney route on Castleton.

Amazing views from the top. photo by fiddlehead.photo

Owen starting up the stellar first pitch.

The fun, middle part of P1. There's another crux above, where the crack on the right wall converges with the corner.

Bailing from the P1 anchors with a storm rolling in. The crack at the crux bulge near the top is hungry for rope, so be extremely careful about getting your ropes stuck if doing this rappel. See my comment for my beta on avoiding a stuck rope.

View from the first belay

An epic stem at the top of the chimney! Photo by fiddlehead.photo

Luke starting the 2nd pitch.

Nearing the top of pitch one.

November top out! Beautiful views.

moving across the face on the last pitch. WINDY!!!

Looking down on Chuck at the belay from the top of the chimney.

Finishing pitch 4

Second pitch near the top.

Rapping the north face kate Schaefer in photo

180º vertical pano from inside the second pitch.

Ken Leiden leading the 2nd pitch of the North Chimney route on Castleton

Piles of death blocks atop the N. Chimney. You did wear your helmet, didn't you?

yeah! the view... and the death block.

Looking up Pitch 3 of the North Chimney. Super fun climbing!

The beautiful north face of Castleton.

This view shows well the length and singularity of the line on P1 of the N. Chimney.

The lower crux on P1 is the move off the ground and then around this ceiling. Brian has back cleaned some gear so the rope will run straight.

Anders on the first few moves.

Along pitch 1

Daisy Solo on Castleton's North Chimney

The bolt protecting the offwidth on P2. Photo shot on 10/24/11.

This is roughly the upper third of pitch 1

Looking at North Face of Castleton Tower, three climbers on ledge in midst of rappelling

We found that the N. Face of Castleton was the easiest way to get off the tower. You can see if anybody is on the route, there's very little chance of getting your rope eaten by cracks, and on this occasion, it was fairly sheltered from the wind.

2nd belay

The super fun first pitch.

Pitch 3

Pat gives the thumbs up after pulling the OW section of the second pitch. Notice the "X'ed" loose block or the right.

Along pitch 1

Viiiiiictory!!!!!!!

Vicente Planelles, El Gato de Espana.

Moving into the offwidth section at the start of pitch 2.

Alex cleaning up the last pitch of the climb. <br>
Check out the Calcite stuck to the wall.

Blake takles the final pitch before joining the Kors-Ingall

Vicente Planelles jamming his way up the 1st pitch.

view from the first belay

rock

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Sunshine11 Lovas

Silverthorne, CO

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