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Feed The Sweed
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.6 from 62
votes
Routes in Barnum Rock
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[Redacted] S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ann Bay Lee S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ars Fabrilis S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ars Pontis T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Bearded Lady, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Beatle Bay Lee S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Beavis S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Butthead S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cornholio T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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El Diablo T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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El Horno Del Diablo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Elephant Burial Ground S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Elephant Burial Ground II (Resurrection) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Feed The Sweed S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fledgling S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Foul Fowl S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Friendly demeanor S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lamentations of Annie Jones (Annie's Lament), The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Le Cirque S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Memorial Daze S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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No Farm, No Fowl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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No Hope Without Dope T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pizz Whiz T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ranger Danger S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Road Kill S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sweet Pea T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Twin Peaks T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Sport, 280 ft (85 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Anders Z., Dominic W., Chris M, Tony F., |
| Page Views: | 4,533 total · 37/month |
| Shared By: | Anders Zway on Mar 7, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here.
Details
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Description
This route is the next route right of The Bearded Lady. This is the only sport route that leads all the way to the top of Barnum Rock.
Pitch 1 / 60ft (5.8):
Start off on vertical face climbing which quickly leads to a small roof. Pull the small roof which puts you into the delicate crux section. Continue on easier climbing to anchors on top of pitch 1.
Pitch 1 is fun to do just as a single pitch if you don't wanna do or don't have time to do the whole route. It has mussy anchors to lower off
Pitch 2 / 60 ft (5.6):
The second pitches crux is the first two bolts. Climbing up and right through the crux to then hit easier terrain. Follow the bolts that roll out right and up to the second anchor on a large ledge.
Pitch 3 / 75 ft (5.8):
The last pitch leaves from the large ledge and makes its way through some beautiful rolling slabs. The end of the slabs is guarded by a small slightly overhanging crack that makes the crux of this pitch. Make the exposed crux moves through the crack and pull on to the upper clean slab. Look out left for the final bolts and moves. Some may want a belay from final anchor up and over short distance to flat area and large block below 3rd anchor (or all the way to the saddle).
Descent: Walk off to the North. Hike down hill along the west side of the wall to get back to the main wall area.
Note: Rappel anchors off the back side have been chopped. Can either down climb to saddle (couple 3rd or 4th class moves, not too exposed) or belay first climber down from large block at flat area below the 3rd anchor. Nice lunch spot by large boulder.
Photos
13 Comments