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Butt Over Buttress
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 1 from 3
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Routes in Lover's Leap on Beaver Brook
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ABBA T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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BB Brain S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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BB Gun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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BB King S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bed And Breakfast T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Black And Blue S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Butt Over Buttress TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Flatten the Curve S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Red Ryder V0 4 |
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School of Mimes (aka Lover's Bulge?) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Short, Sweet Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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| Type: | TR, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | Deb Thompson |
| Page Views: | 843 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Jun 15, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: PRIVATE LAND
Details
This climbing area is on land owned by Clear Creek Land Conservancy. Climbing on private land is a privilege; climb at your own risk and please tread lightly and practice leave no trace.
Description
This is a short climb that sort of begs to be climbed. It pulls a tiny overlap with interesting moves that make it worth the dabble.
Move up to an obvious jug ~10 feet up. Some nice footwork, an insecure lieback, and a chip get past the bulge. Then, you get over your feet as the holds seem licheny. Continue up on easier terrain until you get to the small roof above. Traverse left to the anchors for Bed and Breakfast.
This may be a bit furry, since it was cleaned with bare hands and a nut tool. Update, it's been cleaned gentle with a wire brush, now. Given the aspect of the route, it'll likely need to be brushed every time it gets climbed.
If you set a TR above the roof, you could continue above.
Move up to an obvious jug ~10 feet up. Some nice footwork, an insecure lieback, and a chip get past the bulge. Then, you get over your feet as the holds seem licheny. Continue up on easier terrain until you get to the small roof above. Traverse left to the anchors for Bed and Breakfast.
This may be a bit furry, since it was cleaned with bare hands and a nut tool. Update, it's been cleaned gentle with a wire brush, now. Given the aspect of the route, it'll likely need to be brushed every time it gets climbed.
If you set a TR above the roof, you could continue above.
Protection
A TR with swing potential off the anchors for Bed and Breakfast with a red Alien directional will keep you off the deck. You might be tempted to put a couple cams in the angling crack to start, but it'll be a while until you can get anything in above that. It would be a headpoint at best.
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