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RI to Maine, Rt. 95 to 201, offshoot for climbing

Original Post
Tom Sherman · · Austin, TX · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 433

Hi All,

My gf got us tickets to go whitewater rafting in West Forks, ME on 10/4. So Friday we will be traveling from Bristol, RI to West Forks: Rhode Island > Maine

So we have potential to climb Friday and sunday. With sunday allowing for a possible further detour. (We could start heading somewhere Saturday night, wakeup there sunday) Just trying to figure out some other stuff to pack into the weekend. If there is an obvious climbing destination, near or along the route, the heads up would be appreciated. Looked pretty remote to me...

Nick Votto · · CO, CT, IT · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 320

Closest/best detour will be North Conway area, it'll be around 2 hrs total out of your way though. Don't know of any other climbing that way and east of NH.

beensandbagged · · smallest state · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 0
Max Forbes · · Colorado · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 108

Quincy Quarry a decent spot on 95 south of Boston... And is probably the best on your way. If you boulder consider stopping by Hammond Pond. I would say Pawtakawy is your best bet though, as it actually has some decent climbing.

Lanky · · Tired · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 255

If you like steep 5.12, Shagg Crag isn't too far off your route. Adds about an hour of drive time, plus hike, etc.

Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,945

Shagg hike time 30 min. Shagg experience... PRICELESS.

I'd go to shagg without a doubt just to see it...

But really just go to climb Great Escape, like as much as you can and then continue onward if ur not a 12 climber.

Tom Sherman · · Austin, TX · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 433

Shagg Crag have perma-draws and is really sewn up? That's what I'm getting from the pictures, maybe that will be our stop?

Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,945
Tom Sherman wrote:Shagg Crag have perma-draws and is really sewn up? That's what I'm getting from the pictures, maybe that will be our stop?
Permas were put in after my time... idk id they are still there.

I have never seen china white granite like that place has in the NE. Its epic, and def hike to the top of the mnt. And good luck on the Kennebeck. Amazingly fun river and well worth the trip up there!
Lanky · · Tired · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 255

As of last season, Great Escape and several other trade routes (Ginseng, Shagg It?, and more) had permadraws. I haven't been up yet this fall, but I'd be surprised if they aren't still there.

Jason Denver · · Wakefield · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 735

Longstack precipice would be a great area to go to. It's located in the new Durham link on the New Hampshire page. Many 1-2 pitch routes, all day sun, beautiful setting, short approach and great sunsets have made it a destination for climbers from southern NH and MA. It's probably 45 minutes out of your way, each way. Guidebooks may still be available in Wolfeboro at a store called Stay Tuned (another 5-10mins from cliff) otherwise bring your smartphone or such.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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