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Benjamin Chapman
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Sep 13, 2014
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Small Town, USA
· Joined Jan 2007
· Points: 19,012
Buffy Johnson......sounds more like your mama vaccinated you and you verified the causative link between vaccinations and Autism......what's your obsession with "exploding belays??" Why don't you articulate to us what an "exploding belay" is, as you introduced the term near the top of the thread?
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Benjamin Chapman
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Sep 13, 2014
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Small Town, USA
· Joined Jan 2007
· Points: 19,012
John.....you're either incapable or incompetent.
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Robbie Mackley
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Sep 14, 2014
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Tucson, AZ
· Joined May 2010
· Points: 85
"Why don't you articulate to us what an "exploding belay" is," You're an exploding belay.
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Robbie Mackley
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Sep 15, 2014
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Tucson, AZ
· Joined May 2010
· Points: 85
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Jordan Moore
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Sep 15, 2014
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Feb 2011
· Points: 60
Arin wrote: That's how I roll I third that notion.
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Ralph Swansen
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Sep 15, 2014
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Boulder CO
· Joined Nov 2012
· Points: 761
Kevin Bradford wrote:i usually clove hitch into the shelf with a locking biner and belay the follower from the masterpoint in guide mode ^^^This
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Benjamin Chapman
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Sep 15, 2014
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Small Town, USA
· Joined Jan 2007
· Points: 19,012
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Ralph Swansen
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Sep 15, 2014
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Boulder CO
· Joined Nov 2012
· Points: 761
^^^ Is this guy's belay about to explode? omg
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Ralph Swansen
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Sep 15, 2014
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Boulder CO
· Joined Nov 2012
· Points: 761
This may come down to an analysis of weather or not you pulverize the chalk in your chalkbag to oblivion or do you leave some chunks of various sizes. I could imagine a rogue chunk of chalk could potentially blow a belay to smitherines. Combined with rope drag on while belaying from above on a TR could spell disaster.
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Greg D
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Sep 16, 2014
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Here
· Joined Apr 2006
· Points: 883
climbing2man wrote: Indirect is defined as being attached directly to an anchor, bolt or anything else in which you are no longer under the weight of the rope and if the belayer goes off belay, you will be safe, since your indirect into the anchor. Ha, thanks for defining that for us. Umm, "indirect" = not direct? "in direct" = in direct? what the ?#&@ So, the other day, I said "Hey, I'm indirect or, um, I mean, in direct". My partner said "are you directly in or indirectly in? Can you be more direct about being indirect." I said, "Well I was heading directly to the anchor but in order to avoid the crux, I decided to go indirect and avoid it". Now I'm at the anchor and I'm indirect, I mean in-direct". My partner said, "What the eff did you just say". So I said, "off belay". He said, "Well why the hell didn't you just say that". I replied, "That term is so obsolete. It's just to simple. It has worked for decades but I prefer this new term. All the cool noobs are using it.
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Marc801 C
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Sep 16, 2014
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Sandy, Utah
· Joined Feb 2014
· Points: 65
Greg D wrote:All the clueless noobs are using it. Fixed that for ya!
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teece303
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Sep 16, 2014
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Highlands Ranch, CO
· Joined Dec 2012
· Points: 596
What is up with this "in direct" nonsense I hear people saying these days, any way? The term is "off belay" folks, use it.
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Nathan Burns
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Sep 16, 2014
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Atlanta, GA
· Joined Aug 2013
· Points: 66
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John Farrell
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Sep 16, 2014
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Phoenix, AZ
· Joined Jan 2009
· Points: 85
Kevin Bradford wrote:i usually clove hitch into the shelf with a locking biner and belay the follower from the masterpoint in guide mode Exactly what I do. Granted, the older I get, the more I seem to be suffering from premature exploding belay.
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Nathan Burns
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Sep 16, 2014
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Atlanta, GA
· Joined Aug 2013
· Points: 66
Its a real struggle, im trying to get a piece in, getting pretty pumped, got this tight fingerlock, then BAM, premature belay explosion
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Guy Keesee
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Sep 16, 2014
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Moorpark, CA
· Joined Mar 2008
· Points: 349
"What is up with this "in direct" nonsense I I hear people saying these days, any way? The term is "off belay" folks, use it." Its not the same as Off Belay..... Its when you clip in with a draw, so your belayer, and your cord, get to relax for a bit.....while your dogging the S-it out of a climb. (sport context) Off belay... you can unhook, walk away, eat lunch.... in other words: Belayer your dismissed, I am done with you and I will rap down. (again sport context) But to get to the OP.... indirect.... humm BITD we always call it "tying in"... and there are several ways to do this, pick one. THE INTERNET.... a whole new world of info.
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teece303
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Sep 16, 2014
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Highlands Ranch, CO
· Joined Dec 2012
· Points: 596
Ah, that is true Guy, *I've* even used it that way. But never at an anchor: only when I was clipped or FiFi'ed into a piece of pro mid-climb. What's up with using it at the anchors? Are they really just telling the belayer they are momentarily anchored, and they expect to stay on belay? Because it seems like when I'm hearing it used they really mean "off belay." Curious, now.
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Marc801 C
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Sep 16, 2014
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Sandy, Utah
· Joined Feb 2014
· Points: 65
Guy Keesee wrote:But to get to the OP.... indirect.... humm BITD we always call it "tying in"... and there are several ways to do this, pick one. "In direct" - makes some sense but kinda awkward, IMHO, with the potential for confusion. "indirect" as per the OP usage - simply incorrect.
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Hamilton Kibbe
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Sep 16, 2014
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Somerville, MA
· Joined Apr 2010
· Points: 71
Marc801 wrote: "In direct" - makes some sense but kinda awkward, IMHO, with the potential for confusion. "indirect" as per the OP usage - simply incorrect. Is it possible that one is "in correct", in the sense of being attached correctly to an intermediate piece of protection, or in more esoteric situations, to the anchor?
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Greg D
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Sep 16, 2014
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Here
· Joined Apr 2006
· Points: 883
Marc801 wrote: Fixed that for ya! Did you miss my sarcasm? My oxymoron? Hello?
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