Beta needed Boulder Canyon and Garden of the Gods

Headed to Boulder Canyon and area Sep 12-19 then on to the Garden of the Gods Sep 19-25. MP does a good job with beta but I like to buy guide books for the areas we visit that have drawings of the different areas.

Any suggestions on good beta books and where they can be purchased would be appreciated.

So far it is REI in Ft Collins.

Stewart Green has a new guide to the garden here: Garden of the Gods - A Rock Climber's Guide

You can also pick it up at Mountain Chalet, REI, or the visitor center at Garden of the Gods, all in Colorado Springs.

-Susan

I like to buy guide books for the areas we visit that have drawings of the different areas.

If you want drawings of BoCan you will need to get either Mark Rolofson's sport climbing guides or Richard Rossiter's comprehensive (but dated) guide. Both excellent, neither up to date.

I much prefer topo drawings to photos, but they seem to be a thing of the past.

Mark E Dixon wrote: I much prefer topo drawings to photos, but they seem to be a thing of the past.

The photos often make it easier to recognize a particular area, but I am at home with the drawings as well. Where would I find these books in the Loveland area?

The classic climbs of Garden of the Gods by Rick Geiman is still the best Garden guidebook in my opinion. It's almost 100 pgs.

Whatever the newest Boulder Canyon guidebook out now is going to have the most up to date info. I still have the Boulder Canyon Rock Climbs by Bob D' that is plenty useful.

Dallas R wrote: Where would I find these books in the Loveland area?

Don't know about Loveland, but spin by Neptune's in Boulder and they should have any guidebook you could want. Mark R also sells his books at Top Hat Supply on Pearl Street in Boulder.

I believe the most recent BoCan guidebook is the second edition of Bob D'Antonio's guide. It's a good photo based book.

Thanks, driving into Loveland today, climbing tomorrow, and the next day, and the next day...

The best Beta I can offer you on those destinations is that Garden Of the Gods would be a terrible place to waste too much time with all of the other, actually GOOD, climbing to be had in the front range.
There is good climbing at Ra, CCC, SSV, SP, etc. Depends on at what level you are climbing.
I've climbed a few days there - nothing worth missing a good day elsewhere for.
As for Bocan, the Rossiter book has plenty enough good routes in it and is accurate. It would serve you well for a week or much more. I still use it, though I am getting close to 'completing' it after a decade.

Hi Dallas, I don't mean to discourage you but Garden Of The Gods may not be quite the destination spot you are hoping for. It is certainly scenic and Montezuma's Tower is a must-do but you probably don't need to spend 6 days there. It has also been an unusually wet summer and with Garden of The Gods being a very soft sandstone, you have to give it a couple of days to dry before climbing after a decent rain. If you find yourself looking for other nearby areas, seriously consider Shelf Road near Canon City and various areas in the South Platte (Devils Head for sport climbing, Turkey Rocks for trad, Thunder Ridge for a cool mix, and a bazillion other great areas out there.)

Agree with the above. Garden of the Gods is worth one, maybe two days (+1 for Montezuma's Tower), but I can't imagine spending 6 days in there with all the other amazing climbing we have on the Front Range—much better climbing destinations abound.

spend a day at Garden of Gods then go down to Shelf Road

Dallas, I've been looking for guide books here and there in Loveland. Jax Outdoor (on Eisenhower/HWY 34 just west of Madison) may have something you're looking for. Barnes and Noble (North/West of the 34 and I25 intersection) has some guides too.

Are you heading up to Lumpy Ridge at all while you're in the area? Just curious.

Mathias wrote: Are you heading up to Lumpy Ridge at all while you're in the area? Just curious.

First time to the area. We just checked into Riverview RV park on Hwy34 for a week.

MP lists Rock One Route on Lumpy Range as something that we would be interested in.

Dan G0D5H411 wrote:Hi Dallas, I don't mean to discourage you…unusually wet summer and with Garden of The Gods being a very soft sandstone, you have to give it a couple of days to dry before climbing after a decent rain.

Abram Herman wrote:Agree with the above.

Thanks for the responses.

I have read only minimally about wet sandstone climbing, but know enough not to push the issue. WX forecast says little rain this next week and good wx while we are there, but I will be cautious and talk to some locals if I can find them.

It is nearly impossible to discourage me, but pretty easy to get me to change my mind. Actually Garden of the Gods was chosen because it has a hoity-toity RV campground. I plan on meeting several of my long lost cousins that live in the area. Doesn’t mean that is the only place we will climb. Looking at Kindergarten Rock and Red Rock as well. Remember we are (this could be a new oxymoron) retired newbies. Recently retired older couple new to climbing. 5.5-5.7 unless we can talk good climbers into leading for us.

Time constraints won’t allow us veer to far off of I-25 on our way to TX.