Boston area folks, HELP!!

Marissa Lueders wrote:thanks again for all the info. I am checking out Central today, and definitely will check out Metro soon, too. Looking forward to checking out the Yoga/Pilates program at Central. I direct a Yoga/Pilates studio and teach a Pilates for Climbers class. I climb at two gyms in Fort Collins- these two in the Boston area sound like they may have similar differences (one more modern with athletic/bouldery setting, and one more thoughtful/skillful setting, but smaller and less new). I appreciate going to both and like to mix it up, but my real climbing community is in the older gym. Will you go see for myself and looking forward to it! Also picked up a local climbing guide "Boston Rocks," and have guide for NH. Looking forward to checking it all out :)

Metro is almost as large as CRG- it's splitting hairs really. They certainly do more with less.

I've had a good number of friends that have worked and managed at various Metrorock gyms and can't say enough good things about the staff. If you see right past the fact that it's a bit older, (which i think most people can) the only legitimate gripe is location.

If you are living in Sharon, Gilbert Hills and Lincoln Woods are both really good bouldering. It's a rare winter that Lincoln isn't climbable..hundreds of problems.

Are there any auto belays at Central? If anyone is planning to climb there this afternoon... I'll be the lost looking chick in pigtails wandering around trying to make friends :)

Marissa Lueders wrote:Are there any auto belays at Central? If anyone is planning to climb there this afternoon... I'll be the lost looking chick in pigtails wandering around trying to make friends :)

Careful, those get stuck in belay devices I hear...

Central does not have any autobelays. I have asked about this and been told that the owner hates them and will not put them in his gym.

This is the biggest minus for Central to me. When my climbing partner can't make it, it's great to be able to do some laps up and down the walls anyway. Yes, humans are better, but they aren't always available.

If I weren't at work right now I'd be happy to climb and show you around. But people are often friendly there if you give them a chance; I've had decent luck walking up to groups of 3 and asking if I can trade belays with them.

john strand wrote:If you are living in Sharon, Gilbert Hills and Lincoln Woods are both really good bouldering. It's a rare winter that Lincoln isn't climbable..hundreds of problems.

John, I love it when you give some love to Gilbert Hills. It is the most overlooked bouldering area considering where it is located. Maybe it's for the best that no one goes there, I still have some projects that I want to send!

Marissa Lueders wrote:Are there any auto belays at Central? If anyone is planning to climb there this afternoon... I'll be the lost looking chick in pigtails wandering around trying to make friends :)

Marissa, judging by your picture

I think you will have no shortage of friendly piggies offering to belay :))

I have always liked Metrorock, great people and setting, though getting there in rush hour traffic for me can be a little rough. I haven't been to the new, bigger Central Rock Watertown, but their older one in Worcester is nice for a mid sized gym. The Worcester one is good if you want a little more mellow, less crowded session. You would most likely find Rockspot gyms (2 in RI and one on Sprague st. near Dedham, Mass) and Carrabiners pretty disapointing. Carabiners is a really bad trip. The Rockspot gyms are all pretty short and all seem somewhat 'weird" to me. The one on Sprague St is probably the best of the 3 Rockspots and practically next door to you, so might be OK if you just want a quick indoor bouldering session without driving much.

Welp, I ended up going to Metrorock because I wanted to check the routes out as well as bouldering (auto belays), and it took me an hour and a half to get there. And an hour and a half to get back. Yes, I knew it would be bad Friday afternoon. The gym itself was fabulous! Loved it. Great route setting and atmosphere. Sure wish it were closer. Will have to reserve that one for days I know I am going to be in the city for this or that. Definitely glad I checked it out and will go back again.

Duncan P Ryan wrote: Careful, those get stuck in belay devices I hear...

Piggies, stuck in belay devices?! shit- yes, yes they do.

Glad you liked Metrorock Everett. It is my "home" gym. I know most of the setters there. I will give them your feedback. Full disclosure; I also dabble in setting there ... I guess I am partial to the place. :)

JJNS wrote:This place is good for a quick after work session, better than sitting in traffic trying to get to a gym on the other side of the city: mountainproject.com/v/hammo…

awesome, thank you!

john strand wrote:If you are living in Sharon, Gilbert Hills and Lincoln Woods are both really good bouldering. It's a rare winter that Lincoln isn't climbable..hundreds of problems.

great to know! I am not too strong of a boulderer, but I figured I'd have to pick it up a little more out here! will check them out :)

moving back here (north shore, close enough to boston w/o the gyms) has been torture after living out west. don't do it - you've been warned.

jTaylor wrote:moving back here (north shore, close enough to boston w/o the gyms) has been torture after living out west. don't do it - you've been warned.

Jezuz I know.... Completely spoiled and soft in so so many ways now. Perhaps if I brave a NE winter, icy ski terrain, and the notion that everything should have been done yesterday, I'll be tough again. Sigh. I will make the sun shine damnit.

FYI: A new Central Rock Gym is apparently opening in Cambridge in Nov.

centralrockgym.com/cambridg…

This will be a "bouldering-only" gym with no one under the age of 14 allowed and no birthday parties. There will also be fitness equipment and classes. A generic Central Rock membership will work there. Could end up being too trendy like the Somerville gym though.

With Boston traffic it might be easier to go to Central Rock in Worcester and with a membership there you could also go to Watertown and Cambridge depending on time of day. May be your best bet. I prefer Metrorock too but no gym is worth driving 1.5 hours

Good bouldering in Milford, MA too right by 495. If you are serious about climbing and live in MA, you should get into bouldering. It will make you strong, you can get out for an afternoon, and climb outdoors on rock pretty much year round. You will be a better climber for it.

Jim

We are now in the best 5 or 6 weeks of this year for climbing in NE. Gyms should be destination of last resort!
Here's an event you might want to attend to meet the locals and make connections for outdoors and in - climbgneiss.org/index.php/n…
WMCC is a great organization and has done a lot to secure and maintain climbing in Western Mass. Support them!

S. Neoh wrote:We are now in the best 5 or 6 weeks of this year for climbing in NE. Gyms should be destination of last resort! Here's an event you might want to attend to meet the locals and make connections for outdoors and in - climbgneiss.org/index.php/n… WMCC is a great organization and has done a lot to secure and maintain climbing in Western Mass. Support them!

This looks like a wonderful event! Wish I could make it. I fly back to Colorado tomorrow morning. I'll likely be back the end of October, or some time in November at the latest. Will be here for the winter months so wanted to check out the gym scene. But hope to get outside as much as possible weather permitting. It's great to know there is a good climbing community here and some options for adventuring outside. I'll keep checking these NE threads for goings on :)

OK. When you get back, the gyms will be getting busier as temps drop and length of day shrinks. You should have no trouble finding partners and be able to stay away from those auto-belays! I just do not like them!!

S. Neoh wrote:OK. When you get back, the gyms will be getting busier as temps drop and length of day shrinks. You should have no trouble finding partners and be able to stay away from those auto-belays! I just do not like them!!

Roger that! I like people (most of the time) :)

Ah NE winters !! i miss them SO.. I got toughened up alright, to the point i couldn't walk.
Lincoln Woods and Gilbert have tons of easier bouldering,, lots of Vo-V2 that are classic..Bit none of that smooth Co crap sandstone..REAL rock,, sharp, gritty granite